Rudy7831

To remove the bolts, it may be necessary to either sever the heads or bore through them. Obtaining replacement spire nuts is rather simple. Fasteners that are secured within rivnuts often remain intact since the threading is shielded from external factors.

Undoubtedly, using penetrating oil is an optimal first step when seeking entry. Once the bolt starts rotating, it indicates that the spire nut has fractured, and regrettably, you will likely need to use a more forceful approach.

I encountered the same problem. Usually, when a bolt spins without unscrewing, it indicates that the bolt has been stuck in the spire nut. If the distance between them and the target is sufficient, the optimal course of action would be to meticulously sever the head. If not, firmly grasp the head with a pair of locking pliers and use a sharp drill to bore through the middle till the head detaches. I purchased fresh spire nuts and applied copper grease to the new bolts being inserted. If the screw cannot be properly tightened, you should replace the spire nut or clean the threads of the rivnut using an M6 tap. Although not enjoyable, the task is well worthwhile 👍

Upon examination, it seems that pin 6 and pin 5 both possess a voltage of 12 volts, hence rendering the thickness unnecessary since the resulting current will be comparatively less. A distinct power source is allocated to the Backrest, whilst the seat and bolsters are supplied with an additional power source. It is likely necessary to divide the thick power cable originating from the R8 heater wire into two separate heater wires.

Upon examining the hardware connection of the S5, it is evident that the Power and Ground wires should possess a much greater thickness. In addition, it is advisable to first trace the ground since it is often denoted with more clarity in these diagrams. That is the manner in which I would begin the tracing.

Recommend that you examine Treeri's post

For those who may lack familiarity with side jack points.

This diagram is derived from a Mazda Service Alert that advises against using a flat lift on a Phev vehicle because to the potential hanging of the electric vehicle battery and other components. It specifies the need for spacers on the side lift points. Additionally, it displays Jack's points. Left rear differential. Please be aware that I have not used these centre points, but rather captured a few close-up photographs.

Approximately one month ago, I replaced the batter in my 29-month-old CX-30 with one that has a capacity of 650 CCA. This was necessary since the battery failed to start on a frigid day (20 F/-6 C). The initial battery capacity in the North American vehicles, only for petrol, is limited to 525 CCA. Additionally, the continuous activation of my dashcam is likely to have had a negative impact on the battery's charge state. If you will be in close proximity to the vehicle for a prolonged duration, it may be necessary to place the key fob inside an RFID pouch.

While it may be somewhat bothersome, is it really of significant importance? During the reversal out in the chilly full lock, I executed a gla 45 that exhibited a hop skip and leap like to that of Jonathan Edwards. Even my e46 M3 had some braking issues over the winter, as did most of my other RWD vehicles, such as my C63S estate. While the issue is more noticeable in an AWD vehicle, it seems to be a slight inconvenience rather than a significant concern.

The issue has been resolved. I highly suggest ECU Testing as a reputable organisation. High-quality work and informative content. The fix is costly. If it weren't for the abysmal quality of service provided by Royal Mail, the task would have been completed five days ago. Considering my intelligence, I decided to reposition the clip on the changing rod pivot from the bottom. It is not advisable for me to lie on my back in my driveway. The journey to refurbish was successful. Thank you everyone for the assistance and information.

I successfully inspected the ECU. Is this the one I assume? According to Google's statement. All terminals and connections are devoid of moisture. There are peculiar blemishes on the rear insulation that first seemed to be oil but likely have been there from the beginning. Currently, I am patiently awaiting the repair of my gear shift mechanism.

Thank you. I will provide an update.

I have not yet verified this, but I am curious to know whether oil would have an impact on an Engine Control Unit (ECU). Or how would it be? I have seen some electrical devices that are immersed in oil as a means of maintaining optimal temperature. I am not expressing disagreement, but rather expressing curiosity about how it impacts various aspects. Brake cleaner would likely be effective in removing the dirt or grime.

Thank you for that. I had contemplated the idea of placing it in May N and allowing it to centralise, or alternatively, searching for the indications of where the bolt heads had previously been. Thank you BENZE220AMG

Indeed, that is a favourable suggestion.

The gear lever unit is now undergoing testing and repair by the ECU specialists. I am awaiting their findings. Out of curiosity, I saw that the gear lever box is equipped with enlarged holes, presumably for the purpose of adjustability. What would be the appropriate procedure for setting it up? Thank you.

Thank you for responding. It is peculiar that when I was not touching anything and exiting a crossroads, the situation did not alter. Halting was an unfavourable decision, since it would not resume due to the mistaken belief that it was still engaged in a gear. Attempting the task again after removing the key proved beneficial. I own the iCar soft reader, but, it failed to detect any faults. Consequently, I resorted to using my previous Sealey reader, which successfully identified the defect. Currently, I am unable to take any action on it as the postman will be collecting the item imminently. There is a local Mercedes expert that attempted to fix my friend's car with the same issue but was unable to find a solution, therefore I will take on the task myself. There is a firm that specialises in repairing electronic control units (ECUs) and they are known for their efficient 2-day turnaround time. The defect you mentioned is one of the most often encountered issues they deal with. I will provide an update if it is successful. The task has been completed well, with a total of 194,000 units, therefore there is no reason for complaint.

I replaced the gearbox oil and installed a new strainer around 25,000 miles ago when my vehicle had reached 150,000 miles. I believe I have correctly identified the issue with my Mates E Class vehicle, as it had a similar malfunction and error number a few months ago. It was determined that the sensor located within the shift lever box was the cause of the problem. An unusual occurrence is the infiltration of gearbox grease into the ECU when one does internet research. The component responsible for gear shifting is now being sent to a business specialised in testing electronic control units (ECUs).

Indeed, I have located the little button responsible for disengaging the lever. However, after successfully doing this task, the Starter remains unresponsive due to its erroneous perception of being engaged in a gear. Additionally, the gear indicator light fails to provide any information. During the test, I received an error code indicating a problem with the Gearbox Range Sensor. The specific code is P0705. It seems to be prevalent on this particular iteration of Mercedes. Following a conflict, I have successfully detached the lever box together with its sensor and have subsequently located a business to do its repair. Although it will be expensive, I must give it a try. Thank you.

Is the gear change lever assembly? Is the vehicle equipped with coding and programming capabilities? Therefore, if I purchase a secondhand item, it will not function unless it has been programmed with the necessary code. Thank you.

Could someone provide a clear explanation of the current situation, please? While driving, I reached an intersection. When I tried to accelerate, the automobile remained stuck in a very low gear. The indication was D, however it resembled more closely the first position. Upon reaching a tranquil section of the road, I brought the vehicle to a halt. However, the gearbox became immobilised, rendering me unable to restart it. I contacted the recovery service, but they informed me that it would take around three hours for them to arrive. Unexpectedly, I was able to start the process and for a duration of 30 seconds, the gears were unobstructed, but then became immobilised in first gear once again. I only operated the vehicle in first gear for a distance of just two miles till I reached my residence. I get that there is a switch located underneath the lever, since my acquaintance had a similar problem with his E Class few months ago. If someone could validate my thought process and direct me to locating this switch, I would really appreciate it. Am I allowed to buy and install this component as my friend's part was sent for repairs and cost about £200?

Considering your budget of £40.00, it is important to note that you will not be able to get a significant amount of modifications. Consider examining a collection of metal door pins or even a sophisticated gear knob. Ensure that the vehicle remains clean and organised, and take pleasure in being its owner. What is the cost of insurance each trip?

Extensively modified automobiles, such as those with engine swaps and significant body modifications, are not eligible to be classified as "historic" with the DVLA regardless of their age.

I also suggest platinum coverage.colinallcars efficiently handled my demands and proved to be a reliable partner.:)