mrnobady

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The answer from seems plausible. 360L was new to me. Unfortunately, though. Some notes on 360L from Google and AI are here. Hybrid Content Delivery: Uses Both the Onboard Internet Connection and Regular Satellite Signals You can't manually make a factory 360L unit stream online when there's a strong satellite signal, according to Reddit consensus. Instead, you have to rely on internet streaming for on-demand content or when the satellite signal goes down. I'm going to presume that you have a plan for a mobile hotspot in your vehicle. The main issue is that using a satellite connection results in extremely poor sound quality. The signal has to traverse large portions of the nation while being extremely compressed and having travelled 22,500 miles from the satellite. The audio quality is greatly improved when you use the SiriusXM mobile app in conjunction with Android Auto or Apple CarPlay to stream the SiriusXM channel. (When you pull into your garage, you may even hear the difference in sound quality thanks to 360L.) I suggest making the switch to streaming full time on the SiriusXM 360L car app since it defaults to satellite. Just a quick aside - SiriusXM keeps their pricing plan a secret. The "Music & Entertainment Advantage 25" package, which covers both streaming and satellite, costs $120 per year.

Remove the Bluetooth connection and see if it helps. Reset Bluetooth if you really desire it. Use of the Wi-Fi hotspot is subject to the same rules.

I successfully charged my EV3 utilising the Ohme application and charger without encountering any problems.

I encountered the identical issue, so ultimately I returned to the website and purchased the USB directly from KIA, which functioned flawlessly. Continuing to encounter difficulties in locating an appropriate cable for ANDROID AUTO... however, that is...

That appears to be a vexing problem, particularly following the replacement of the radiator and EGR cooler. You indicated that it only overheats and depletes coolant under strenuous driving conditions—have you observed any potential sources of coolant leakage? Elaborating on your observations may assist the individuals here in identifying the root cause.

Exide 096 AGM Car Battery 70Ah AGM700 EK700, Large : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

I would take the initiative to substitute it with a new AGM battery.

Transport the used battery to Auto Zone. They will provide you with $10 in exchange for it.

Fascinating defect I presume you have observed this discussion? The audio circuit is responsible for an unwanted battery drain; what are the solutions? Indeed, Mk4 compared to Mk5, yet there might still be some utility. It appears that this issue is relatively prevalent. I'm unclear about your reference to "All fuses out," but please review that discussion. The auditory apparatus... I have encountered analogous erroneous diagnostic codes stemming from electrical system malfunctions on one of my Mk4.5 vehicles; for instance, I received persistent "Water in Fuel" alerts and General Electrical Faults, which ultimately were traced back to a faulty (intermittent) ground connection at the Trailer Light Control module. Thus far, at least... To be honest, I find myself somewhat perplexed regarding your current situation, but it may be prudent to temporarily overlook the information provided by Forscan and several battery chargers. I would begin anew with the fundamentals to ensure clarity. Verify the parasitic current consumption. Adjust your DMM to the 2Amp setting and utilise high-quality crocodile clips to establish a secure connection between the Chassis and a point along the Battery Ground cable. Deactivate the vehicle, allow it to enter sleep mode, then detach the Battery Ground connection from the chassis, ensuring the DMM clips remain attached to prevent the car from detecting a battery disconnection and maintaining its sleep state. Subsequently, observe the actual current draw you are receiving.

I concur with the preceding two contributors: It is improbable to locate any diagram. Nevertheless, do not be discouraged. I accessed my Trailer Lights control box, seemingly an Australian-made (aftermarket?) retrofit associated with the tow bar, and discovered several SMDs inside, distinctly marked with chip identifiers. I successfully identified the chips, traced the tracks and circuits, and determined that the box was functioning properly. The error stemmed from poor installation... although I question its relevance in this case. What is it that you are attempting to rectify or accomplish? P.S. I observe, for what it's worth, that your BCM is produced by the same manufacturer responsible for the TCM Unit (Mechatronic Lump) within the Powershift Transmission. Furthermore, for what it's worth, I do not regard the TCM unit as the origin of the Powershift's identified issues.

That works out to around £12,000 for a vehicle. We are not discussing timeless masterpieces!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0CZDFGJY5?crid=1SSN949KZIA4T&keywords=split+power+usb+cable&sprefix=split+powerusb+cable,aps,238&dib_tag=se&_encoding=UTF8&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.gD47tjP8iIP5KrNKOMkYv6PaI_oRvUdXMKpCx5a8BaMH__83JWThi84rT4v_pw7xs2APLolP4SFtZiejuDvodD1vAUUXFpaipJ27774ZLo-Fbaxj_oXFEhWuG_YfLKb5i6fb2Kciysf8w2qMNBczwjKGCjyuY7uUywZRCTTYi4r-L5zPGTIIv6CfWjJmgqc9I-9vOIL_E1PYxGZAjVQ2VqmUYaoYH0e0o9_SmuLqPzU.Gb-jWIe9lyprsvr4IwBZaFFnEMdRE-1DBua-CnvjJFY&sr=8-4&ar_srct=T1&linkCode=gg2&tag=kiaownersclub-sl-20

This is what my EV6 and AAWireless work best with.

Predated the G by three years!

How much money do you have available? I am going to put my SL on the market soon. It was serviced and inspected today. This 63 is a genuine AMG.

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Great to be here, thank you very much!

My name is X and I "inherited" a 74-plate Evoque from my employer. How does it stack up against the previous generation of Audi Q3?

In regards to the shock absorbers.

Before you install them, make sure the ride height sensors work.

Sadly, it's not only a sticker with the stresses watered down.

My fuel filler cap tyre pressure label is gone after I just upgraded to an E Class Cabriolet A238 E220d 19 Plate. Is there a way I can verify if the photo that someone generously posted to a Facebook group matches the one that the dealership has provided? I own 275/35R19 in the front and 245/40R19 in the rear.

For the record, I figured I'd add some further information. For whole panel removal, I discovered the plastic surround around the load cover mounting point on the left side of the boot to be the key. The only thing keeping it in place is a single pin clip, so you can easily take it out.

Appreciate the letter Coming from an M6 with the B&O system, I was likewise let down by the Burmester system, therefore I'm taking a same path as you. May I kindly request further information on the process of removing the boot trim in order to reach the current Burmester amplifier? I would much appreciate your assistance since I was able to remove the floor very simply but then ran into a wall. Thank you