mrnobady

The identical clicking sound has been emanating from the passenger side mirror of my S211 as of late. It wasn't until it stopped folding correctly that I even realized anything was wrong. It can still be folded, but only with the assistance of a kind traveler. I didn't realize the clicking started at 30 mph, but I double-checked today and you're right. Astute observation. The glass tilting mechanism isn't to blame since I can move it and strike the end stops without hearing the same noise. The noise you hear is most likely the folding mechanism at work. I was wondering if you folded your mirrors before setting out whether they would automatically unfold once you reached 30 mph.

I'm not sure whether I'll be able to drive comfortably, but at least I can get in. Have put some miles on it (including travels to the Vermont Conclave and the Eurofest in South Carolina). With a center shift gearbox, the vehicle's interior is more spacious than it would be with a side shift. The vehicle's Moto-lita dished steering wheel creates a little additional legroom. Be equipped with an OEM hardtop. Even though I've never tried on a soft top, I have a sneaking suspicion that it provides greater headroom than the standard hard top. Some angle iron was welded to the front of the seat base, while some flat stock was soldered to the interior. The floor-facing edge of the base was reinforced with a square stock piece using welding. The floor was leveled out a little bit where it narrows and widens above the spring mount. New screw holes were drilled. Because of this, I was able to slide my seat backward and closer to the transmission. The seat's tilt was also improved by moving the pivot point higher. It's possible I'll have to rebuild the rails of the seat, lengthening the studs so I can use tapered spacers to tilt the whole seat. However, the damage I've done can be undone by putting in a new seat bottom. To hide the dip switch, I installed a dead pedal cover. Some time ago, an item appeared in a publication aimed to club members. The dip switch is normally accessible by flipping the cover up, but its proximity to the dead pedal on my bike allows me to just push down harder on the pedal to activate it. The accelerator pedal may also need some adjustments. The curved plate is pushed forward by removing the small portion of rod in front of it.

Changing drivers won't be a problem. Because of this, I am 6 feet, 9 inches tall and (much) heavier than average. A few of occasions I had a retractor lock. But it was because I had turned the knob clockwise instead of clockwise with the arrow.

Our BT7 also has BCS seat belts. I'm not sure how the existing shoulder/lap belt configuration would function with the tonneau. I fabricated the nut/bracket used to attach the retraction mechanisms to the studs in the wheel wells. The BCS-supplied bracket just required one stud. Able to snap a photo if required.

Is there general agreement on which is the easiest to use? Although my prior experience with an OBII monitor was limited, it was sufficient to identify a MAF and save unnecessary expenditures. Thanks

I figured reviving an old topic would be easier than starting a new one, so here's my question: If the vehicle disables all the sensors if one fails, how can you tell which ones are broken? My (backup) merc expert (my regular one is too busy to help me right now) advised me to replace all of the bumpers at once since "once one goes, they all start to fail," which seems pricey in terms of labor and 8(?) components, so I'm tempted to attempt doing it myself. Help identifying which sensors are down would be much appreciated.

Thanks. Good to know.

Just the front, I take it? Have you looked in the trunk and under the spare tire? (I want to double check that we're staring at the front of the automobile. I was wondering whether your automobile had a sunroof. It's not always obvious. They also have issues with front-facing leaks caused by clogged drain pipe openings.

This occurred on my E500 when the battery was discharged. Batteries swapped out.

It seems the entrance and wing will need to be repainted. Smart repair *might* be able to fix the black plastic wheel trim, but otherwise you'll need to replace it.

Found this site to be quite beneficial. Supposedly, the Mk5 is slightly longer and slightly narrower, but with the mirrors retracted. At least in the guise of an estate. https://www.carsized.com/en/cars/compare/ford-mondeo-2007-estate-vs-ford-mondeo-2014-estate/front/ You also cannot select the Mk3 presumably because it is too ancient.

I live in the south of England, and if the Hyundai fuel problem is not resolved soon, would anybody want to go to High Wycombe to meet with the Director of Hyundai UK? Perhaps a personal visit from all angry Hyundai Tuscon CRTD owners would persuade him and the company that there is an issue that needs to be resolved.:grin: I'm on my seventh or eighth tank of petrol and have only driven 2600 miles on all sorts of roads in changing weather, but I still can't get more than 325 miles to the tank. (The other day, I incorrectly believed I had 375 miles and had to wipe my glasses.)

Thanks for the latest info,:clap: Since purchasing my Tuscon in October of 2004, I have yet to see the impressive results advertised by Hyundai. I always try to save gas by looking at the fuel gauge, and I've sometimes gotten an extra two or three miles out of my car when compared to the official number. For example, if my real distance is 2145 miles and my tank's remaining mileage indicator is 155 miles, I'll know that I've driven one extra mile since my tank indicator now reads 154 miles.It helps, but the highest I've ever gotten is 374 miles per gallon. :angry2: I'm disappointed, too; I had my heart set on a Tuscon, but I sifted through all the SUV options to find the best one, what with my impending retirement and all. Please keep up the pressure on Hyundai; I waited three months for a car before they finally agreed to ship one to me, and when they did, it was a midnight blue model that wasn't listed in the brochure's approved colour detail. The UK managing director (MD) was very nice on the phone, but Hyundai doesn't pay much attention to the company's UK branch.

OK, thanks; I'll reread the manual regarding the fuel query and conduct a search for xcarlink-related topics. Still keeping my fingers crossed that the legendary Mazda reliability record will translate into few (if any) maintenance and repair questions.

During the first fill-up, I saw a sticker inside the filler flap that said 'USE PREMIUM UNLEADED ONLY' or something to that effect. Is it okay to use ordinary 95RON in the engine, or should I use the cheap juice? I'm willing to go with premium 98RON if it means improved performance and efficiency. My car arrived with a Bose music system and a 6-CD changer, but no AUX-in port (which is normally located in the armrest pocket). I'm thinking about obtaining the XCarLink Kit to add iPod/iPhone connection, but I wanted to see if anybody had any issues with installation or general usage beforehand. Thank you, and please accept my apologies if these questions need to be reposted someplace more suitable!

My three is a 1.6d.I assume it has the same size petroleum capacity as yours (12 gallons or 55 litres). When the last block on the fuel gauge disappears.Approximately 0.2 to 2.5 litres remain.I presume Mazda's intent is to eliminate the possibility of attracting debris from the bottom of the tank. My vehicle can be driven for a week with zero range displayed