allmightyASTON

Indeed, the meter fuse has been verified to be in proper working condition.

I have located my multimeter. Upon conducting an examination of the ohm's, it was seen that the values exhibited variation, with the lowest point recorded at 53 and the maximum point at 137. Revision: I inadvertently made contact with the gauge. Remained immobile. I have reason to believe that the gauge is malfunctioning.

I own an infrared temperature gun; unfortunately, it is of low quality and does not provide accurate readings. Upon personal experimentation, the obtained results indicated that my body temperature was 8 degrees lower than the expected norm for a human being. Nevertheless, I embarked on a brief 15-minute excursion, during which a portion of the journey may have included operating the vehicle at maximum acceleration. Upon tactile examination, I saw that the upper hose had a pliable texture, allowing for effortless compression to the extent that coolant flow was significantly impeded. It is worth noting, however, that such manipulation would have resulted in potential thermal injury to my hand. The lower hose has a pliable texture and a slightly elevated temperature. In order to ascertain the ohmic value, it is imperative that I locate my voltmeter, which seems to have been misplaced.

Yes, that wire is really the correct one. I will attempt to do the suggested action and observe the resulting outcome. Initially, it will be necessary to locate a suitable wire inside the confines of my workshop.

I have had recurring issues with electrical malfunctions. The vehicle in question is a Mazda B2200 carbureted model manufactured in 1990. I have encountered a persistent issue over the course of one year, prompting me to do an investigation into the discrepancy between the temperature gauge reading, which indicates a frigid state, and the actual state of the vehicle being completely warmed up. Prior to removing the gauge cluster, I want to gather relevant information about the subject matter. I conducted an examination of the wire that is connected to the temperature sensor. The values exhibited a fluctuation range of 2.98 to 4.05. What is the expected voltage level? The vehicle was in operation throughout that period. According to a source called Street source, it was said that the potential values might be either 2 or 7. I have refrained from inserting a wire into the connector and afterwards establishing a ground connection in order to assess if the gauge exhibits a sudden increase in measurement. When the vehicle's ignition switch is turned to the auxiliary position, all lights on the cluster illuminate. Based on my assessment, it seems that the fuel gauge is functioning with a high degree of precision. The gauge resulted in my vehicle being immobilized on a single occasion. Thank you once again.

Thank you for your prompt response. I failed to specify that the chips are located on the side of the car rather than the front. It is important to note that these chips are not a result of other car doors colliding with my vehicle. Additionally, the mileage of the automobile is 30,000 kilometers, which is equivalent to 18,600 miles in your preferred unit of measurement.

We own a 2018 Mazda 6 vehicle that was acquired in a new condition. After having driven around 30,000 kilometers, we have seen the occurrence of paint chipping on the vehicle's exterior. The vehicle is mostly stored in a garage. Approximately six chips have manifested throughout the preceding six-month period. Has anybody had success with their dealer in terms of finding a resolution? Greetings David, who resides in Sydney, Australia.

I have not encountered any problems with my glovebox; however, it is worth noting that the damper rod is indeed connected to the car. To remove it, one can employ a pick tool to extract it and subsequently utilize a pair of pliers to firmly grasp it. In the event that the plastic pin is unavailable, an alternative object can be employed to pass through the two holes located near the hinge at the end of the glovebox. By inserting the pin through the first hole, followed by the rod, and finally through the second hole, the task is successfully completed.

The locksmith's assistance may be limited unless they possess expertise in automotive locksmithing. The latch encompasses the mechanism that activates the door ajar indicator light. In the event that the vehicle detects an open door, it activates the interior light and prevents the user from engaging the locking mechanism. It is necessary to get a latch.

However, there is a requirement that one must be a resident of Utah.

The final seven digits of the chassis number may be used to determine the correct component number on realoem.com.

Both statements are true.

Hi everyone - this is a weird one; it's not really an issue, but I just can't figure it out. Three to twelve fast clicks or taps come from the passenger door mirror every time I start the vehicle and drive away for the first time, at speeds more than 30 miles per hour. The reflection in the mirror seems immobile. Do not listen to it again until I reach 30 mph after turning the engine back on, regardless of how long the trip is or how fast I am going. Do you happen to know what it is? If it's simple to remedy, I will, but if not, consider it a quirk of the vehicle. 2003 S211 E320

Hello, and appreciation! Please send some of this my way.😀

Hello Get a 3.0L Mazda Tribute from 2006 I called a technician and he came out; he scanned the vehicle and found codes for the coils, fuel pressure sensor, and perhaps the PCM (powertrain control module). A new fuel pressure sensor, spark plugs, and ignition coils were all installed. Eventually, he told me that the pcm was faulty and that I could get it reprogrammed elsewhere. He removed it, but I recall thinking that in a few of weeks, when we move, we'll need to drive the vehicle into a trailer. He inserted it one again. However, as we get it up to speeds of more than 20 miles per hour, it starts to sputter and seem weak. The automobile was functioning normally until recently, at which point I noticed the issue. We would much value your input.

Kim Kardashian is well-known for her 'buttock augmentation' operation.

Oh, thank God..... At first I assumed you had gone full-on Kardashian on us.🤣

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Hi When I upgraded from an MK3 to an MK5, I did not really notice an increase in breadth, and my MK5 has an improved back camera. The biggest difference is how much longer the vehicle feels. Only model I'm aware of where the five doors extend beyond the estate. I really need to get around to installing a front camera since I often park further away from the curb to avoid damaging the valance, which leaves the rear of the vehicle protruding. When I reverse, I do sometimes get confused about where to look. View the left mirror. Right mirror look? View the camera? Most of the time, you just need a camera to make sure that no jerks try to stroll behind a moving vehicle. Probably just an age issue.

I support the notion of acting "in force." You may have read my findings in the "Fuel Consumption" thread (notice typo for the correct thread), where I detailed my 375 miles on a tankful, with a pitiful 9.1litres/100km (31 UK MPG) as my BEST efforts, despite the fact that I have only driven approximately 2900 miles. If we elect to go as a group, I would suggest coordinating a date and time with David Walker. I would not wish for him to be "out" when we arrived. Also, I would suggest, if we were to make the trip, that we do NOT reset the MPG metre (leave it at its current best) and fill the tank to the brim (I mean force every last drip into the tank) before starting, reset the Trip metre and meet him at a garage in High Wycombe, where we all note our trip lengths, refill the tanks, noting the litres required to fill the tanks again and calculate the MPG and record it officially in Thus, he will understand that we mean business, and our concerns will be reinforced in a positive manner. It would also be a fascinating day trip that would leave us with a sense of accomplishment. I am confident that he will require this type of approach, as we need him and Hyundai UK on our side so that they can effectively communicate our position to the international Hyundai office. Perhaps also a letter from each of us conveying our concerns and detailing our individual findings. Even if there is nothing that can be done mechanically and we must be patient and run-in our new vehicles, Hyundai should make adjustments to their advertising literature and fuel consumption specifications, and provide a reasonable explanation in layman's terms as to why the Tucson performs worse than comparable SUVs. Lastly, are we being excessively paranoid? Should we allocate more time for running? What verifiable information do we gather in comparison to other SUVs? Should we heed the advice of fellow 4x4 proprietors that we should anticipate higher fuel consumption? (i.e., as a novice to 4x4, are my expectations unrealistic?)

Hello there. You have my full support on this. In the Fuel Consumption discussion, I recently shared my own test findings. I'll also write to Hyundai UK with my results.

If you click on the link at the bottom of my post, you can see all the details about how I refresh. I don't usually drive it until the warning light comes on. When I fill, it usually only has one block left, and I can rarely get more than 45 litres in it.