ElectricEclipse

My present vehicle typically operates somewhat around 80 degrees, but in traffic on a sunny day, it can reach approximately 120 degrees, while during winter, it may drop below 80 degrees when driving. Numerous vehicles I own have exhibited this variety, hence it appears pretty usual to me. The majority possess a viscous coupling to operate the fan.

Temperature fluctuations may occur due to the thermostat's position (open or closed), ambient temperature, airflow through the radiator (which is influenced by speed and the operation of the radiator fan), and engine load; so, some variation is indeed typical.

You were unable to compose it; you await the arrival of songs 1 and 2, but at least you are content with your acquisitions. 👍👍

has been shared earlier by user cx90mc.

I discovered an alternative Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) on the website of the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA).

This is the most recent Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) that includes the addition of dust covers. I am uncertain about the availability of this TSB in Canada. In September, my dealer applied lubricant to the source of the squeaky noise, and since then, the problem has not reoccurred. Anomalous noise emanating from the front of the vehicle while encountering a bump while executing a turn at a low velocity. M R TSB Number: R017/23, dated March 25, 2024, regarding PD CX-60. Until August 1st, 2023, the CX-90 is available. Until July 20th, 2023. Problem: Anomalous noise (creaking, squeaking) emanating from the front of the car after encountering a bump when making a turn at a slow speed. The reason: A stick-slip phenomena may happen between the front stopper rubber and the bracket in the front lower rear arm. Refer to TSB. The solution involves doing a thorough examination, performing tests, and making precise adjustments to ensure proper clearances. Additionally, fresh grease will be applied, and the dust covers will be replaced with new ones, even if they are not necessarily required. Modification in the process of mass production The stopper rubber has been lubricated with grease. Lower arm dust coverings have been inserted. The size of the mounting hole on the lower arm bracket has been altered.

whether you happen to be in a supermarket parking lot and see a Mk4 Sportage, you could just park close and politely ask (after observing him discreetly) whether you might test his car's luggage cover in your own vehicle.

https://go.skimresources.com/?id=130832X1600938&isjs=1&jv=15.7.1&sref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.kiaownersclub.co.uk%2Fthreads%2Fdo-mk3-mk4-parcel-shelves-load-covers-fit-the-mk5.78282%2F&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fitm%2F196494308924&xs=1&xtz=-180&xuuid=0782e937168f3e271a47e1e8b11b0ac1&cci=b7360228cc984418edb3e120b8db80a0

It is unusual that a 23 Sportage would already be without the shelf. Have you inspected the area under the trunk floor to ensure that nothing has been stowed there? Upon observing the configuration of the back portion of the extendable shelf, it is evident that the Mk5 variant differs from the Mk4 version and does not seem to be compatible - however this is really a conjecture on my part. The most inexpensive Mk5 I have discovered is priced at slightly under £80, including postage and packaging, when using a discount code.

Issue with the indicator? Is it installed on a BMW? I am unable to comprehend the information. An indicator is a measure or sign that provides information about a particular condition or trend.

Thank you, KOOLCAR, for providing such an outstanding material. If the orientation of the EGR unit aligns with the specifications mentioned in the datasheet, I may be able to do a partial inspection of the vacuum portion without much disassembly.

Experiment: Reduction in miles per gallon (MPG) due to increased fan speed. Prior to my daily journey, disengage the radiator fan. Result: The MPG decrease and unusual fluctuations in MPG from the initial values were consistent (beginning at 14.1mpg and progressively increasing to 14.9 -> 16.x -> 18.x -> 21.x over the following 3 to 4 miles). Initially, the automobile achieves a fuel efficiency of 31.x MPG within a short distance after leaving home. Shortly after, it reaches the mid 30's and within 5 miles it reaches the 40's. For most journeys, it consistently achieves fuel efficiency in the 50's. I see a significant decrease in fuel efficiency when encountering even the slightest incline, which then returns to normal while going downhill. Previously, there was a noticeable decrease in fuel efficiency of around 1 or 2 miles per gallon (MPG), but today the decrease is much more significant, with a reduction of 5 or 6 MPG per hill. Last week, I conducted a comprehensive fuel efficiency test on my vehicle. Typically, I am able to travel a distance of 510 to 530 miles on a full tank of fuel, sometimes even surpassing this range. However, now, my vehicle is only able to cover a distance of 460 miles on a full tank. According to the hypothesis, the same issue that is leading to the low fuel efficiency is also causing the ECU to receive data indicating the need for more cooling.

I appreciate the advice, gentlemen. The automobile has been scheduled for a second diagnostic test this week. Today, someone speculated, "Could the increased load from the fan running impact fuel consumption?" Undoubtedly, the answer is affirmative, since it must have an impact to a certain extent. However, is a 10% influence exceeding a reasonable proposition? The primary battery has not been replaced throughout my ownership, indicating that it is likely the original battery. I replaced the battery situated in the boot on November 23rd.

The vehicle I own is a 2015 E250 CDI estate, equipped with an OM651 engine. The automobile has travelled a total of 118,000 miles without any faults, with 50,000 of those miles driven by me. Recently, my daily commute has consistently achieved a fuel efficiency of 54 miles per gallon, with a variation of just 2 miles per gallon. This is an impressive achievement for a large car. No errors or flaws, under any circumstances. Consistently performed oil and filter changes every 8,000 miles, with the most recent gearbox fluid replacement being in July of last year. Approximately three weeks ago, I saw that the radiator fan was rapidly increasing its speed approximately 30 seconds after starting the engine. Despite the low outside temperature of 2C or 3C, I must admit that I did not immediately see a decrease in fuel efficiency. The engine temperature reaches its typical 90 degrees Celsius after about 15 minutes of driving. I am also certain that on one occasion, the fan did not rotate at all throughout my 40-mile journey back home. When I switch the engine to position 2, the fan ceases to operate. Therefore, it is not the issue of being continuously active. I have perused the current discussions on the issues of a 'noisy fan' and 'radiator fan speed', as well as the solution using the AC Pressure Sensor. I am reluctant to visit that place only due to the decline in the economy. I would like to inquire if you believe that the excessive cooling from the fan is affecting the economy by preventing the engine from reaching its optimal temperature for fuel efficiency. Alternatively, it might be that the issue is with a different sensor that is more closely associated with the fuel system, and this sensor is in turn sending a signal to the Engine Control Unit (ECU) indicating a failure. What I have seen is that my fuel efficiency number when the engine is cold is now beginning at 14.1 miles per gallon. I am very meticulous when it comes to monitoring fuel efficiency. I have noticed a recent change in the vehicle's behaviour, which makes me suspect that it could be entering a state of reduced performance, often known as limp mode, but I have not seen any noticeable decrease in engine power. The scanner I now own is a Launch CRP129, which is said to be pretty simple. However, it is equipped with the latest files, and I would have expected it to be capable of detecting error codes. No fault codes are present. The only reference to any issue in the 'live stream' is found exclusively in the EGR section. The fault code "Y85 EGR cooler bypass switchover valve Fault. 53336/6058" indicates that the value of the switchover valve changes to 'OFF' while driving. Although others have brought up this point, they have not specifically addressed the problem of fan speed. I believe this is nothing. Up to this point, I have replaced the coolant temperature sensor with an authentic component from Mercedes. Unaltered. I brought the vehicle to my nearby diagnostic facility, where they had just passed the MOT despite the car having the same issue we had noted when scheduling the appointment. The diagnostic indicated a malfunctioning radiator fan controller, which is documented on the bill. I bought a Ridex fan shroud from Autodoc and installed it myself, but there was no difference - everything remained same. Considering contacting the individual again to provide them with another opportunity to identify the issue, but uncertain owing to their prior incorrect diagnosis. Opinions? Aside from the comment "god, that's a long post" 😉

There were no floor mats included with my purchase, which I complained about initially. However, on a subsequent return to the dealership to address the issues with the 212/226 models, my salesperson inquired whether I still wanted a pair of floor mats. I politely refused, expressing gratitude, since I had already purchased a pair of second-hand but adequate Kia mats. However, I said that a boot liner would be useful. It is commendable that he has arranged for me to get a free item as a result of the problem of receiving a vehicle with the incorrect specifications, even though the dealer is not at fault in this situation. I had a Nissan safety package that was not utilised, which included dayglo jackets, space blankets, a first-aid kit, and a warning triangle. I have stored this equipment beneath the trunk floor. There is no fire extinguisher available, thus if there is a fire, it will continue to burn without any means of stopping it. Manufacturers are becoming more economical when it comes to include a spare wheel in this kind of equipment. In the past, a spare wheel was almost always included as a standard feature. However, nowadays, we are provided with several additional features such as automatic lights and wipers, sensors, reversing cameras, and a multitude of safety systems.

Novelty is consistently more appealing. If you intend to modify the device, the warranty will inevitably be voided. The warranties may be extended for a total of 15 years. Carbon brakes have an extremely long lifespan. Almost The all-wheel drive (AWD) system is essentially a rear-wheel drive with a little amount of front-wheel assistance. Wishing you success and please share photographs whenever you get it!

It has been observed that the Updater App sometimes fails to identify earlier software versions. Nevertheless, the Model number, as shown on the Version Info page, often functions well. The identification number of the model is also associated with the Eligible Vehicles List.

To determine the version of your automobile, just turn on the ignition and press and hold the Setup button, which may be located on a cog wheel. The version data screen will then appear, displaying information identical to what Faltwen's first picture shows.

Indeed, there will be a transition to the neon symbol.

The textbook recommends checking the engine oil level when the engine is hot, preferably at the end of a refuelling stop after the engine has been turned off for 5-10 minutes. This allows the oil to drain back into the sump and for the oil level to stabilise, ensuring an accurate reading. Engines are susceptible to damage from both low oil levels and overfilling, with diesel engines being more vulnerable than petrol engines. Checking the oil level when the engine is at operating temperatures (95⁰C to 105⁰C, depending on the engine type) helps prevent overfilling when the oil expands as it heats up. Modern engines include a feature that alerts you if the engine oil level rises excessively when the engine reaches high temperatures, in order to safeguard the engine. Some mechanics suggest that the ideal oil level while hot should be positioned midway between the Min and Max marks to prevent overfilling. I like to keep the oil level just below the Max mark while the engine is hot. Some may argue that this is unnecessary for newer engines that have less oil use between services.

The reading should be a minimum of Min when cold and a maximum of Max when heated. It is advisable to check the oil level while the engine is warm; it should be slightly below the maximum mark.

The reasoning is peculiar. The maximum speed allowed in the Netherlands is 130 km/h. My vehicle lacks power in the front and feels unstable while driving at speeds of 150 and higher. I wouldn't anticipate a response such as, "You are not permitted to drive at that speed." I go to Germany 3 to 4 times a year, where some routes have no speed restriction.

Thank you. That's not my concern. The window of my automobile may rattle depending on the external temperature.

Could you provide a precise image of the location? I am unfamiliar with the latch/striker pin you are referring about. Be considerate. I also have a rattling. When I opened the window by 1mm, the rattling noise disappeared.

Have you made a purchase of a Miata vehicle?