SD1too

Your diagnosis seemed effective, having removed the prop shaft to ascertain the cause of the problem. The issue is probably associated with the electronic clutch engaging inappropriately. The electronic clutch in your Captiva's all-wheel-drive system is designed to activate the back wheels upon detection of slip in the front wheels. If it is consistently partly engaged, many factors may be responsible. Defective clutch control module: The module may be transmitting erroneous signals, resulting in the clutch engaging inappropriately. Degraded or compromised clutch components: Over time, the clutch plates may deteriorate or sustain damage, resulting in inadequate engagement. Electrical complications: Wiring deficiencies or a faulty connection may result in the clutch engaging incessantly. Degraded or contaminated fluid: The presence of aged or polluted fluid in the transfer case or clutch system might impair clutch functionality. Here are the actions you may consider or verify: Examine the wiring and connections associated with the clutch for any apparent damage or corrosion. Utilise an OBD-II scanner to identify any error codes that may provide more insight into the problem. Contemplate replacing the fluid in the transfer case to see whether it ameliorates the condition. If you possess mechanical aptitude, you may examine the clutch; nevertheless, it is advisable to seek expert assistance or get a repair manual for comprehensive instructions. Replacing the clutch unit may be intricate and may need specialised equipment.

The 'wup-wup' sound you report in your Chevrolet Captiva when cornering, which was rectified by detaching the prop shaft, indicates a problem with the electronic clutch linking the prop shaft to the rear differential. This component, often integrated into the all-wheel-drive (AWD) system, may have issues that lead to abnormal sounds and inadequate engagement. Here is the procedure to resolve the problem with the electronic clutch: Identify the Issue: Visual Inspection: Examine for any apparent indications of corrosion or deterioration on the clutch assembly and adjacent components. Electronic Diagnostics: Employ an OBD-II scanner capable of interfacing with the AWD system to identify any problem codes pertaining to the clutch or AWD system. This may provide you with a deeper understanding of whether the problem is electrical or mechanical. Verify Fluid Levels: Differential Fluid: Inadequate or aged differential fluid may result in auditory disturbances and malfunction. Ensure the differential fluid is at the appropriate level and in optimal condition. Substitute it if it is soiled or antiquated. Examine the control module regulating the electronic clutch for any defects. Examine the wiring and connections associated with the clutch for indications of damage, corrosion, or loose connections. Electric Clutch Replacement: If diagnostics reveal a malfunctioning clutch, it must be replaced. The procedure often entails: Elevate the Vehicle: Elevate the vehicle securely using jack stands or a lift to safely reach the undercarriage. Detach the Prop Shaft: As you have previously detached the prop shaft, replace it subsequently with the new clutch. Disengage the Clutch: Detach any electrical connections to the clutch and remove any fasteners fastening it to the differential. Install the replacement clutch by positioning it, fastening it with bolts, and re-establishing the electrical connections. Reinstall the propeller shaft: After the new clutch has been installed, reattach the propeller shaft. Professional Assistance: If you are not confident executing these procedures yourself, it is advisable to see a certified technician or an automobile repair facility. The components of an AWD system may be complex, and correct installation is essential for safety and performance. Preventative Measures: Following the resolution of the issue, routine maintenance of the AWD system, including the inspection of fluid levels and their condition, may mitigate the risk of future complications. Resolving the electronic clutch problem should restore the full functionality of the AWD system and remove the noise you have been experiencing.

Not all wheels has a stamped load rating. An effective approach is to ascertain the curb weight of the vehicle. The factory wheels are not rated for much more than one-quarter of that value. To get more accuracy, calculate the curb weight plus 1,000 pounds (for passengers) plus one-tenth of the tow rating, and then divide the total by four. The options for the CX90 are somewhat restricted, unless the wheels are sourced from a similar SUV over 5000 pounds.

Has this automobile been properly maintained? Are the spark plugs and wires in satisfactory condition? Are coil packs acceptable? Are there any suction leaks from deteriorated hoses in the intake system? A multitude of issues might arise with an ageing vehicle.

A new Bosch air mass sensor would likely suffice. This component is renowned for its propensity to malfunction. Purchasing from a dealership is expensive; get authentic components from an auto parts shop for much less.

You are a commendable parent for purchasing a Mercedes for your kid. It signifies that you are concerned about your kid.

As stated in a previous discussion today, the Mercedes-Benz branded batteries in my SL vehicle was installed 20 years ago. However, I am unaware of the exact year of its manufacturing.

Lately, I have encountered this issue. Based on the forum postings, it seems that many individuals are experiencing the same problem. The issue in my situation has been identified as a deformation in the front wheel. The reason of the issue seems to be inconsistent, but it is a valuable avenue of inquiry for anyone experiencing the same problem. Additionally, there is a Mercedes Service Bulletin addressing the same problem. LI42.10-P-066910 AUG17 213 sans AMG, there is a noticeable vibration in the front brakes while braking. To address this issue, please inspect the state of the disc brake and brake pads, check for wheel imbalance, examine the suspension and steering elements and assess the contact surface of the wheel hub. If there are no visible or measurable damages to any of the components, then it is necessary to replace the brake pads. Hopefully, this information proves beneficial to someone.

If you are unable to troubleshoot and identify the issue yourself via trial and error, you will need to entrust it to the technician. Prior to anything else, it is crucial that you acquire a scan tool to accurately guide you towards the first area to investigate. Subsequently, if you choose not to progress with the investigation alone, you should communicate the findings to a technician. Finally, do you own the aluminium intake manifold or the plastic variant?

How is your dash cam connected, is it plugged into a 12V power socket or directly linked into a circuit?

Is the keyboard malfunctioning?

For the sake of your own safety and the protection of your loved ones, refrain from modifying the head restraints. The purpose of their presence is not to provide comfort, but rather to serve as a safety precaution against head whiplash in the event of an accident. If the protrusion of the seats causes discomfort, consider modifying the angle of recline of your seat. Furthermore, please refrain from deleting or inverting them.

Did my lack of consideration result in the impossibility of removing them entirely?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/392764770425?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=4wWUOKnCQr2&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=g1NaSSleQ9O&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338181125&toolid=10001&customid=2518X1570512X13485eb31b04a38c8eb521f06d754df3

Do they seem satisfactory?

Understood. Thank you, markjay. I followed Dodpops' suggestion and unplugged it last night to see if it would resolve the issue. However, the problem persisted when I started it again when it was cold. I did see a tiny improvement, but I'm not really sure whether it was real or just my hopeful imagination. However, the engine would not maintain a steady idle speed until I increased the revolutions per minute (rpm) to a range of about 1200-1500rpm. Would I have obtained a more conclusive outcome by disconnecting it and attempting a cold start? I appreciate the contributions from both of you.

Indeed, he too has a strong affection for it! He was quite astonished. The W202 versions are still quite durable and reliable. The vehicle is equipped with front and side airbags, and the air conditioning system effectively clears the glass. Additionally, the W202 model has very small A pillars, resulting in minimal blind spots. Additionally, this will allow him to develop an appreciation for my W202 C36, increasing the likelihood that he will continue to own it in the future. Therefore, the motivations are not only driven by selflessness. Indeed, he has just reached the age of 16 and is now eligible for a junior AA membership, since there is no RAC equivalent in New Zealand. However, I do not believe that they are the solution to rectifying this flaw 🙂

I shall endeavour tomorrow and return to you. Thank you, friend 🙂

Greetings, everyone. Apologies if this topic has already been addressed: I just purchased a 1998 W202 C200 with a m111 engine as a first automobile for my son's birthday. My intention is to introduce him to the brand at an early age, with the goal that he would not simply sell my old Mercedes cars once I pass away. During the first start when the engine is cold, it operates with significant roughness and fails to maintain a stable idle. To maintain the engine's operation, you need to manipulate the throttle and set it to approximately 1500 rpm until the engine temperature reaches around 60 degrees Celsius. At this point, the engine runs smoothly, except when using kickdown to shift to first gear at high speeds on the open road. In this scenario, the engine may run unevenly and sporadically clear up depending on the specific throttle position within the 75-100% throttle range. It is preferable that this full throttle issue goes unnoticed and is never encountered. However, during the test drive, I saw a particular issue that caught my attention, leading me to speculate that it may be related to the throttle body potentiometer or a similar component. Therefore, I am uncertain whether this issue is related to the problem that occurs during the warm-up phase of a cold start. However, I am more concerned in resolving this particular fault before I hand it over to him. The automobile is a New Zealand model, which means it will have the same emissions equipment as a new car in the UK. I have observed that they all appear to have the same specifications. Greetings and I hope the weather is becoming more pleasant in Blighty. Thank you.

None of the aforementioned problems are present in my automobile. There have been no issues reported since April 24th and the vehicle has travelled a distance of 28,000 km.

I mock friends who attempt to boast about these assistive devices by referring to them as "aids for the elderly". However, it is worth mentioning that although my vehicle might have been equipped with the self-parking feature, it only has the guiding system. I find it enjoyable to use when the car advises it, as mentioned by the original poster.

Is the act of disconnecting the end device intended to prevent the metre from detecting a parallel loop?

Thank you, I will probably use the CTEK charger, same as I do with my Corvette. By the way, you may detach the ground connection leading to the fender well without any loss of settings. I have accomplished it on several occasions. Indeed, it is a standard procedure for Mazda to eliminate the battery warning code. Indeed, I have reason to believe that my battery was defective from the start. Similar incidents have been documented and reported by others in this source. Although the connector profile and dimensions are the same, my new battery does not resemble the old.

Appears good. For my intended application, I will use the alligators to facilitate access at the port and secure them firmly to the ground. It is possible to arrange the wire in a way that allows the hood to shut. Desire to cease the vehicle's ongoing monitoring of the open hood.

Did you use the cigarette plug or alligator clips? If you are aware, alligators have easy access. The negative connection in the rear right is somewhat less problematic, but establishing a connection between the negative line and the fender well metal ground is straightforward. Did you connect the negative terminal there?