SD1too

Understood. Thank you, markjay. I followed Dodpops' suggestion and unplugged it last night to see if it would resolve the issue. However, the problem persisted when I started it again when it was cold. I did see a tiny improvement, but I'm not really sure whether it was real or just my hopeful imagination. However, the engine would not maintain a steady idle speed until I increased the revolutions per minute (rpm) to a range of about 1200-1500rpm. Would I have obtained a more conclusive outcome by disconnecting it and attempting a cold start? I appreciate the contributions from both of you.

Indeed, he too has a strong affection for it! He was quite astonished. The W202 versions are still quite durable and reliable. The vehicle is equipped with front and side airbags, and the air conditioning system effectively clears the glass. Additionally, the W202 model has very small A pillars, resulting in minimal blind spots. Additionally, this will allow him to develop an appreciation for my W202 C36, increasing the likelihood that he will continue to own it in the future. Therefore, the motivations are not only driven by selflessness. Indeed, he has just reached the age of 16 and is now eligible for a junior AA membership, since there is no RAC equivalent in New Zealand. However, I do not believe that they are the solution to rectifying this flaw 🙂

I shall endeavour tomorrow and return to you. Thank you, friend 🙂

Greetings, everyone. Apologies if this topic has already been addressed: I just purchased a 1998 W202 C200 with a m111 engine as a first automobile for my son's birthday. My intention is to introduce him to the brand at an early age, with the goal that he would not simply sell my old Mercedes cars once I pass away. During the first start when the engine is cold, it operates with significant roughness and fails to maintain a stable idle. To maintain the engine's operation, you need to manipulate the throttle and set it to approximately 1500 rpm until the engine temperature reaches around 60 degrees Celsius. At this point, the engine runs smoothly, except when using kickdown to shift to first gear at high speeds on the open road. In this scenario, the engine may run unevenly and sporadically clear up depending on the specific throttle position within the 75-100% throttle range. It is preferable that this full throttle issue goes unnoticed and is never encountered. However, during the test drive, I saw a particular issue that caught my attention, leading me to speculate that it may be related to the throttle body potentiometer or a similar component. Therefore, I am uncertain whether this issue is related to the problem that occurs during the warm-up phase of a cold start. However, I am more concerned in resolving this particular fault before I hand it over to him. The automobile is a New Zealand model, which means it will have the same emissions equipment as a new car in the UK. I have observed that they all appear to have the same specifications. Greetings and I hope the weather is becoming more pleasant in Blighty. Thank you.

None of the aforementioned problems are present in my automobile. There have been no issues reported since April 24th and the vehicle has travelled a distance of 28,000 km.

I mock friends who attempt to boast about these assistive devices by referring to them as "aids for the elderly". However, it is worth mentioning that although my vehicle might have been equipped with the self-parking feature, it only has the guiding system. I find it enjoyable to use when the car advises it, as mentioned by the original poster.

Is the act of disconnecting the end device intended to prevent the metre from detecting a parallel loop?

Thank you, I will probably use the CTEK charger, same as I do with my Corvette. By the way, you may detach the ground connection leading to the fender well without any loss of settings. I have accomplished it on several occasions. Indeed, it is a standard procedure for Mazda to eliminate the battery warning code. Indeed, I have reason to believe that my battery was defective from the start. Similar incidents have been documented and reported by others in this source. Although the connector profile and dimensions are the same, my new battery does not resemble the old.

Appears good. For my intended application, I will use the alligators to facilitate access at the port and secure them firmly to the ground. It is possible to arrange the wire in a way that allows the hood to shut. Desire to cease the vehicle's ongoing monitoring of the open hood.

Did you use the cigarette plug or alligator clips? If you are aware, alligators have easy access. The negative connection in the rear right is somewhat less problematic, but establishing a connection between the negative line and the fender well metal ground is straightforward. Did you connect the negative terminal there?

I am posting my query here since I have been unable to get a clear and definitive response from my support department. Acquired a 24 cx 90 on June 23rd. I drove the automobile from June until the first week of September, after which it remained unused for three weeks while I went on vacation. Upon returning, the vehicle immediately started without any issues. However, a warning message indicating the need to drive the car in order to charge the battery was shown, accompanied by annoying chimes. From September 23rd to April 24th, despite driving routinely, the issue persisted without improvement. Subjected to several trickle charges. I repeatedly disconnected the battery in order to reset the code. Visited the auto repair shop on three separate occasions. The dealer consistently confirmed that the battery was in good condition on each occasion. You just need to increase the amount of time you spend driving.I persisted in pursuing the matter, and in April, they agreed to replace the battery, even if Mazda was not funding the cost of repair. There have been no issues whatsoever with the replacement battery for a period of 2.5 months. Is the automobile going to remain stationary for a duration of 4 weeks? Should I disconnect the ground and leave it in that state? You have two options: disconnect and trickle charge, or keep connected and trickle charge. I often use a state-of-the-art CTEK Ccharger, specifically designed for high-tech applications, to charge my Vette. It does not over charge and restores batteries. The service technician disapproved of utilising a charger but failed to provide a compelling justification. Although this is a forum, I have a suspicion that there are individuals with expertise present. I am inclined to unplug the ground connection leading to the fender well and gradually reduce its flow. By using the CTEK, it is possible to attach it to a battery without having to unhook it from the automobile, thereby isolating the battery.

I purchased a wireless dongle, namely the AA Wireless model, and considered the task complete. Functions flawlessly.

Did you really believe that 195 horsepower and comparable torque statistics would be sufficient to propel a vehicle weighing one and a half tonnes to high speeds? Excess weight is detrimental to your well-being. The specifications of the US version are comparable and may be described as only 'sufficient', without any additional features. It is likely that your accent was far less pronounced and had a distinct emphasis compared to the US accent. 3500 pounds is a substantial amount of weight to initiate and sustain movement. Many of your complaints might be attributed to fuel efficiency issues.

Greetings everyone, I need immediate guidance. My 2012 C-Class petrol vehicle has incurred damage as a result of the absence of oil pressure. Preliminary examinations indicate that the intake camshaft has sustained some impairments (although the exhaust camshaft seems to be unaffected), and there is also some damage to the crankshaft. The engine operates with the same level of performance as when it was driven to the garage, but emits a noise reminiscent of a diesel engine from the 1980s. Should we go for rebuilding or replacing? I have received a quotation to substitute an engine with a 68k engine at a cost of £3,750. The process of rebuilding seems to exhibit significant variation, but, it is understandable that the extent of further damage cannot be determined until further examination is conducted. The price range for the initial cost is between £2,000 and £2,500. It is worth noting that some individuals may incur this amount as their final bill, while others may exceed the cost of replacement. What is your opinion? I am perplexed while I deliberate on the optimal course of action. Any assistance or advice would be much appreciated. Situated in southwest London, assuming it has any bearing on the guidance.

Considering the much higher cost, one would anticipate a Karcher K2 or K3 to be of superior quality.

I had to search for it online. It's not a brand that I was familiar with.

Are you referring to the Heads-Up Display (HUD)? Have you not witnessed it before?

There is no spanner or wrench shown on the HUD.

Hello, I have recently changed all the plugs/leads and also replaced the rocker cover gaskets. About a week later, the car's performance significantly deteriorated, with poor deceleration and idling, accompanied by the occurrence of similar error codes. I was feeling quite frustrated till I stumbled over this post while doing a Google search. I registered to express my gratitude for providing this information. Thank you for preventing me from incurring the expense of replacing the throttle body, since that was going to be my next step. Therefore, if you ever find yourself in New Zealand, I am indebted to you and will gladly buy you a drink.

If the vehicle is an automatic gearbox, then most likely it is.

I am enamoured with the aesthetic appeal, auditory experience, and personal satisfaction I get from operating my vehicle. I am indifferent to who is quicker than me. I purchased it for my own satisfaction, and that is the only confirmation I want. I do not engage in the activity of playing Top Trumps.

https://workshop.bilstein.com/en/with-bilstein-does-the-suspension-retain-its-intelligence/

The original equipment manufacturer (OEM) damper for the S204 Mercedes is manufactured by Bilstein. Therefore, it is recommended to purchase the Bilstein damper. It is important to note that this is not just an ordinary Bilstein B4 damper, but rather a B4 DampMatic® damper. There is no need for B6 or B8.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/401911-w123-instrument-cluster-lights-not-working-isnt-rheostat.html