Ken_Lion

While PHEVs seem to be more susceptible to issues because to their intricate hybrid systems, MHEVs also encounter significant challenges. We regret to learn of any CX-90 experiencing persistent troubles and hope the dealerships can assist the owners effectively. Regardless, maintaining documentation and consulting a lawyer if required may be advisable.

Do you own a PHEV or MHEV?

Does anybody else feel that Sports+ mode is very sensitive, rendering the vehicle undrivable on uneven surfaces? Two roads later, upon exiting a junction, the road is somewhat undulating (not very bumpy), and as the vehicle traverses it in Sports+, it begins to exhibit a jackrabbit motion as my foot adjusts on the throttle owing to the car's movement, which is exacerbated by its responsiveness to the throttle alteration. I am gradually accelerating to 30, using a gentle and steady approach while attuning my ears to the engine's sound in Sports+ mode. An instance of the road's undulation resembles the A3 as one approaches Guildford from the M25, when it narrows to two lanes, which was particularly problematic the other night, although I was not in my A238. If you have traversed that area, you will get my meaning. There are no similar difficulties in other modes, just in Sports+. I have seen significant latency in Sports+ while demanding substantial throttle; the response seems delayed, followed by an unexpected explosion of power. A scenario may include overtaking on the highway at around 50 mph; you signal, maneuver into the next lane, and request acceleration, but experience a little delay before the vehicle accelerates rapidly to warp speed. Race mode is far more polished in all situations and responds precisely to your commands.

I will proceed to get the new head with a little different component number, since mine is a 2.0 M102 from an S124 200TE, and the replacement is identical. The mileage on my vehicle exceeds 150,000, but I own no historical records, and it has been inoperable for a minimum of 13 years (acquired via a lottery for £6!). An Erling gasket set and new head bolts are unequivocally included in the procurement list! Salutations

Greetings everyone, I am currently replacing a defective head gasket; however, upon removing the cylinder head, I observed that the gasket remains intact. Nonetheless, the coolant passageways surrounding cylinder 4 have corroded, resulting in minimal aluminum between the passageway and the cylinder wall. I suspect this may be the source of coolant infiltrating the combustion chamber. The piston head and valves in cylinder 4 exhibit signs of having been steam cleaned, and the engine emitted white smoke while misfiring before ultimately stalling completely. I conducted a compression test before disassembly, revealing that cylinders 3 and 4 were significantly low, with cylinder 4 exhibiting the most severe deficiency. I have examined the mating surface from several angles using a 0.05mm gauge, and there is no indication of warpage. It seems that the head has been previously skimmed, therefore it is uncertain if it can be skimmed further. My existing head has the component number R1020165701, however the only feasible replacement I can locate within an acceptable distance and price is part number R1020163501. I need guidance on whether there is a substantial difference between the two component numbers. The photos seem indistinguishable when compared side by side.

I am unavailable on both days this weekend; however, I anticipate viewing your photographs. Enjoy your time.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=UP11-EUR---E88-BMW-123d&diagId=13_1227

That is the sole T piece I can discern in the illustration, unless I am misinterpreting the subject.

Additionally, I can consistently see a $10 discount offer in the My Mazda app under... My Mazda/My Services/Service Proposals

No, it does not; you can establish a charge limit, often 20 percent is effective for me.

Activate the charging button

I would begin with a new, high-quality AGM battery. Eliminate the codes as well. Historic codes for erroneous ABS or steering angle data held in other modules may cause the CCF (speed control module, ACC) to display this issue.

Enter your VIN on vindecoderz.com to see whether it is a 2011.5 model.

My car has the same problem around once a month, constantly when in motion; it has never occurred while starting or while using cruise control. It primarily happens after the meeting with a pothole or a sudden road imperfection. I do not like to detach my front bumper, and my car is an early 2011 AB model that seems to retain certain components from 2010. The 2010 model had two sensors under the bumper, however the succeeding 2011 and 2012 versions are outfitted with a single sensor positioned below the bumper cover. I am unsure of the version I own, if I have the twin sensor variant, and which, if any, is malfunctioning. I cannot reach the space behind the bumper to see if the connector(s) may be loose. I anticipate enduring it, at least until the temperature markedly rises in this region.

Have you attempted?

The 724 gearbox is a dual-clutch gearbox, not a torque converter type, and therefore requires servicing every 62,000 miles or every 5 years. It is quite probable that a shifting calibration is required, or alternatively, your clutch plates may be worn. It is anticipated that conditions will enhance with a dynamic modification and a software update.

In this instance, it is necessary to replace the water pump.

If it is 10,000 miles over 12 months, I would consider the mechanical warranty null and useless. Kia will use the three-month wait to deny any engine claims.

I regret to learn about your Tesla. To use your Tesla wall connection with the 2023 Prius Prime, you will want a Tesla to J1772 adaptor, enabling non-Tesla electric vehicles to charge using Tesla connectors. Ensure compatibility with your wall connection model. Your Prius charger is probably a single-unit configuration, hence using your current Tesla setup with the adaptor should function well.

My apologies. I should have read the headline and noted that you specified the car. I still believe it is the gear selector that will be sent as a whole set, rather than only the plastic component.

It seems to be a component of a gear selector unit. Additional information on the car, such as its model and year, is necessary for anybody to provide assistance. If the gear selector seen in your avatar pertains to the Vito, there are others available for purchase on eBay; nevertheless, the whole unit is required.

I would remove the remaining badges.

Did you push and hold the reset button until the TPMS light flashed three times?