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Typically, they possess two or three fittings (for the pressure switch) and are secured with a bracket. It is essential to install the new dryer promptly after detaching the fittings, since it will begin to collect moisture from the ambient upon removal. If it only seems unclean, although your air conditioning functions well, do not intervene.

I will do a rescan over the weekend.

I must rescan and document all the codes; I suspect most are unrelated to starting the vehicle. I have detached the front bumper and headlights, among other components, resulting in certain error messages related to those modifications. The scanner is a 'Autel' model, which has BMW in its compatibility list; nevertheless, as a beginner, I am uncertain about its efficacy. The cost was around £300. I have since acquired an oscilloscope to determine if the injectors are getting any input signal, but I have not yet had the opportunity to verify that.

Greetings to everybody, I want assistance in diagnosing the issue with my 2005 320d E90. I am experiencing a 'crank but no start' issue, which I suspect is related to a malfunctioning immobiliser CAS. I use the term 'believe' since I have exhausted all others. All four injectors, high-pressure fuel pump, rails, sensors, filter, and fuel pump have been replaced. I have acquired a mid-range scanner that allows me to clear fault codes, although nothing seems to function properly. It just will not initiate. I need an auto electrician with expertise in these matters.

It may be an air issue; nonetheless, doing a code scan would be the most prudent approach. In the absence of fault codes, we would be engaging in conjecture, which may incur significant expenses.

Please inform us of your progress, since the information may benefit others.

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Uncertain in your vicinity. Any circuit breaker, I suppose. It may be beneficial to consider Dronsfield's, a reputable establishment that offers mail order services and may be located online.

Greetings. You are correct; it is very peculiar, and I have been attempting to identify the underlying problem for years. Last year, I purchased new tires and wheels, which were balanced, and the wheel alignment was also performed.

Thank you for your insights. You said that residual vibration persists after the clutch is disengaged; I too experience similar vibrations, however they are not constant and occur only at certain speeds. I am uncertain about the equipment used for the scan; nevertheless, I can review the documentation later. If you are aware of the necessary parameters to be examined, I can consult with ISTA-D. Additionally, I would like to note that vibration intensity is contingent upon engine load.

Greetings. Initially, when I depress the accelerator pedal halfway, the vehicle accelerates smoothly. However, when I fully depress the accelerator, the car begins to vibrate significantly at high speeds, specifically in the 5th and 6th gears, within the range of approximately 2000 to 3000 RPM. Beyond 3000 RPM, the car accelerates normally and operates smoothly. The vehicle operates smoothly in gears 1 through 4, exhibiting no vibrations at any speed, RPM, or accelerator pedal position. It seems that a portion of the engine's power is not transmitted to the rear wheels, resulting in significant vibrations in the chassis until certain RPMs are reached. Actions undertaken: Four new tires All new brake discs and pads New crankshaft pulley New engine mounts and gearbox mount Flywheel and clutch mechanism EGR and EGR cooler Propshaft central bearing The mechanic examined and tested the vehicle, and I was informed that there are no concerns. Propshaft Suspension Propeller shaft joint Both driveshafts No diagnostic trouble codes present I am interested in any ideas or if someone has had a similar situation. Thank you! I have extensively researched related subjects but cannot locate any information on that particular topic.

Uncertain with the earlier vehicles. I am not contemplating the purchase of a new automobile, but the absence of a dipstick would not deter me. I am very traditional, amusingly so.

Is there a dipstick present? That is the one entity in which I place my confidence. Could the old sensor have been wet due to a little leak?

All components contribute to eco tires, which purportedly possess an extended tread lifespan thanks to the used compounds. (reduced weight, rolling resistance, etc.) The depth of the rears is not specified. If superior, I would rotate to equalise wear. The HEV exhibits considerable vigour from a stationary position, resulting in more wear on the front wheels compared to the rear. Mine measure 4mm with a comparative of slightly under 8K.

The white stripes are exclusive to the Daytime Running Lights on higher grades. Lower trims use the headlight as the daytime running light (DRL). Revised for clarity

I consistently use Mannol oil, as do many others here. As long as the container has the BMW LL04 designation, it will be OK. I replace mine every 6,000 to 7,000 miles or annually. My 2002 E53 is approaching 200,000 miles and continues to operate well.

128k is not substantial. Consistent oil changes will prolong its operational lifespan significantly. The noise diminishes after an oil change; nevertheless, one acclimatises to the engine's sound and fails to perceive the difference until the subsequent change. Does it make sense?

It is fortunate that you had a longer battery life than average. Typically, batteries tend to last about 5 or 6 years. In the case of your previous vehicle, the Kia Sportage (2017), you had to replace the battery after 6 years when it stopped functioning. It is possible that your prior automobiles had or now have far less electrical components operating in the background.

That batteries is identical to the one I have in my skyactive x. The other day, when I was organising the media, I left the doors open and the ignition on for a period of time, which resulted in the battery losing all its charge. Fortunately, my compact power pack successfully started the device. However, I am now concerned about the possibility of it abandoning me in a helpless situation. I have decided to heed EtherealWanderer's recommendation and purchase a 65Ah battery.

Consider attempting the procedure by disconnecting the blue line, which I believe is related to the ibs. I have never been knowledgeable or interested in electrical systems.

I have previously encountered this issue on this platform, but I am now unable to locate the specific thread. I will review it again later after I have had more coffee. Additionally, do the remaining functionalities such as lights, wipers, and other components operate properly? A cable defect in the B+ circuit causes a complete shutdown of all electrical functions, including the ability to lock and start the device.

Was this feature included in the upgrade for the radar cruise control, or is it separate? Do you happen to own the programme version or any further information that you can provide? The performance of this automobile in stop and go traffic is unsatisfactory. That is my main complaint.

Popcorn time.

I see online readers with prices ranging from $70 to $500. Do you have any suggestions?

Although I lack the VCDS software, I shall make an attempt using the resources now available to me. I will be able to get one in the future. My nephew and I raced Golf R cars on a track, and he had a far greater amount of equipment.