NAVITEL

I possess a 2021 GLC equipped with Michelin Pilot Sport SUV tires (non-runflat) and have not seen this issue whatsoever. I suspect there was a modification for the suspension of certain earlier vehicles, but I cannot confirm this with certainty. I admire these vehicles; best of luck with yours.

In Sweden, towing is not encompassed within the warranty but is instead part of the assistance coverage or can be added as an endorsement to the car insurance. If you possess such coverage, the vehicle will be transported to the nearest authorised service provider. Assistance is included for the initial three years, with an additional year granted for each service performed at a Mazda dealership. Therefore, I recommend examining the specifics of the towing coverage.

Given that the engine has 200,000 miles, the oil may require a longer duration to return due to the accumulation of sludge and other debris in the drainage channels. Consequently, the drainage process may exceed one hour, contingent upon the internal state of the engine. Maintain the fluid level at three-quarters when cold, and fill it to the maximum when cold after standing overnight to avoid any complications.

If your iDrive indicates 3/4 and your dipstick also reads 3/4 when cold, then the iDrive is accurate.

Furthermore, do not refuel your vehicle with oil immediately after it has been operated. Allow all oil to return to the sump for approximately 30 minutes, then fill to the maximum level. Performing this action immediately after using the engine sometimes leads to overfilling, as the maximum level may be reached while an additional 4 to 5 litres remain above the sump, yet to drain down.

As the vehicle operates, oil circulates to the upper engine components, including the turbocharger, resulting in a decrease in the sump level, where the dipstick is located. After around 30 minutes, the oil returns to the sump and registers a higher level on the dipstick. entirely typical

I consistently utilise the LR Remote application on my smartphone to preheat my Evoque P300e. This provides the option to utilise either the petrol engine or the electric vehicle batteries. When at home, I utilise the EV battery while ensuring that the charger is connected and activated, allowing the vehicle to draw power from the mains energy instead of exhausting the EV battery.

I have exceeded 32,000 miles. My existing tires are on the verge of replacement; but, with winter approaching, I want to replace them now. We travel extensively between home and several locations around the Midwest, making the time seem justifiable. I selected the Pirellis. The commentary in this discussion was really beneficial. I saved more than $400 and believe I acquired an excellent tyre. Further updates will follow when I assess their performance.

I am now changing the tires on my 2024 CX-90. My choice is between the Michelin CC2s or the Pirelli Scorpion Weatheractives. Nonetheless, in both instances, our local dealer advises that they do not adhere to OEM requirements. They instead propose a tyre that I do not want. We reside in Minnesota and like winter-rated all-season tires. Any guidance is welcomed!

Typically, they possess two or three fittings (for the pressure switch) and are secured with a bracket. It is essential to install the new dryer promptly after detaching the fittings, since it will begin to collect moisture from the ambient upon removal. If it only seems unclean, although your air conditioning functions well, do not intervene.

I will do a rescan over the weekend.

I must rescan and document all the codes; I suspect most are unrelated to starting the vehicle. I have detached the front bumper and headlights, among other components, resulting in certain error messages related to those modifications. The scanner is a 'Autel' model, which has BMW in its compatibility list; nevertheless, as a beginner, I am uncertain about its efficacy. The cost was around £300. I have since acquired an oscilloscope to determine if the injectors are getting any input signal, but I have not yet had the opportunity to verify that.

Greetings to everybody, I want assistance in diagnosing the issue with my 2005 320d E90. I am experiencing a 'crank but no start' issue, which I suspect is related to a malfunctioning immobiliser CAS. I use the term 'believe' since I have exhausted all others. All four injectors, high-pressure fuel pump, rails, sensors, filter, and fuel pump have been replaced. I have acquired a mid-range scanner that allows me to clear fault codes, although nothing seems to function properly. It just will not initiate. I need an auto electrician with expertise in these matters.

It may be an air issue; nonetheless, doing a code scan would be the most prudent approach. In the absence of fault codes, we would be engaging in conjecture, which may incur significant expenses.

Please inform us of your progress, since the information may benefit others.

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Uncertain in your vicinity. Any circuit breaker, I suppose. It may be beneficial to consider Dronsfield's, a reputable establishment that offers mail order services and may be located online.

Greetings. You are correct; it is very peculiar, and I have been attempting to identify the underlying problem for years. Last year, I purchased new tires and wheels, which were balanced, and the wheel alignment was also performed.

Thank you for your insights. You said that residual vibration persists after the clutch is disengaged; I too experience similar vibrations, however they are not constant and occur only at certain speeds. I am uncertain about the equipment used for the scan; nevertheless, I can review the documentation later. If you are aware of the necessary parameters to be examined, I can consult with ISTA-D. Additionally, I would like to note that vibration intensity is contingent upon engine load.

Greetings. Initially, when I depress the accelerator pedal halfway, the vehicle accelerates smoothly. However, when I fully depress the accelerator, the car begins to vibrate significantly at high speeds, specifically in the 5th and 6th gears, within the range of approximately 2000 to 3000 RPM. Beyond 3000 RPM, the car accelerates normally and operates smoothly. The vehicle operates smoothly in gears 1 through 4, exhibiting no vibrations at any speed, RPM, or accelerator pedal position. It seems that a portion of the engine's power is not transmitted to the rear wheels, resulting in significant vibrations in the chassis until certain RPMs are reached. Actions undertaken: Four new tires All new brake discs and pads New crankshaft pulley New engine mounts and gearbox mount Flywheel and clutch mechanism EGR and EGR cooler Propshaft central bearing The mechanic examined and tested the vehicle, and I was informed that there are no concerns. Propshaft Suspension Propeller shaft joint Both driveshafts No diagnostic trouble codes present I am interested in any ideas or if someone has had a similar situation. Thank you! I have extensively researched related subjects but cannot locate any information on that particular topic.

Uncertain with the earlier vehicles. I am not contemplating the purchase of a new automobile, but the absence of a dipstick would not deter me. I am very traditional, amusingly so.

Is there a dipstick present? That is the one entity in which I place my confidence. Could the old sensor have been wet due to a little leak?

All components contribute to eco tires, which purportedly possess an extended tread lifespan thanks to the used compounds. (reduced weight, rolling resistance, etc.) The depth of the rears is not specified. If superior, I would rotate to equalise wear. The HEV exhibits considerable vigour from a stationary position, resulting in more wear on the front wheels compared to the rear. Mine measure 4mm with a comparative of slightly under 8K.

The white stripes are exclusive to the Daytime Running Lights on higher grades. Lower trims use the headlight as the daytime running light (DRL). Revised for clarity

I consistently use Mannol oil, as do many others here. As long as the container has the BMW LL04 designation, it will be OK. I replace mine every 6,000 to 7,000 miles or annually. My 2002 E53 is approaching 200,000 miles and continues to operate well.