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Shouldn't 2017 vehicles be unaffected? It could simply be surface rust, which is quite common. Unless it can be thoroughly examined, I think it's better to stay away from it.

Thank you for the responses. Regrettably, mine is an early 2023 model, so I presume there are no choices for remote climate control. Thank you once more.

Greetings, I have own a CH-R for seven months; it is a 2023 GR Sport model. Should climate control be a standard feature on this model? I am unable to locate any information, and the application indicates that I possess none. Several other Toyota drivers have suggested that it should. It is scheduled for a service next month, and I have enquired about the matter; but, I wish to equip myself with further knowledge if feasible.

I concur. It performs adequately with most vehicles; nevertheless, I have reservations regarding the reliability of the offline VIN decoding. US decoders typically misinterpret UK or European decodes and complain about incorrect check digits. This one is accurate. https://www.vindecoderz.com/ Notably, the SRS fault had vanished this evening. Likely related to temperature and humidity; therefore, I will certainly clean the connector(s).

Indeed, I possess multiple multimeters and have over 40 years of knowledge in electronics, hence I should be capable of diagnosing the SRS error. I find it peculiar that there are flaws attributed to non-existent oecus. Perhaps it is merely an anomaly associated with the China Delphi CDP clone? The anomaly regarding the VIN is peculiar. The "read VIN" function correlates the vehicle with the V5C paperwork; however, CDP recognises the VIN as a W203 CLC from 2008 onwards.

Initially, I must mention that I am utilising a China Delphi CDP Autocom to diagnose and erase errors. I suspect the vehicle is a W203; but, upon reading the VIN, Delphi identifies it as a 2008 CLC, which it absolutely is not. The SRS malfunction appears to be caused by significant resistance in the driver's airbag. I will examine the connector after the rain ceases. Multifunction diagnostics indicate numerous defects; nonetheless, it appears that all components of the vehicle are functioning well. The system is indicating parking aid malfunctions, despite the absence of parking sensors in the vehicle. This is the SAM list. The vehicle was operational, hence I am uncertain as to why I am experiencing simultaneous overvoltage and undervoltage conditions. Is there a comparable defect list from "Front SAM"? Multifunction (SAM - Rear (Signal Acquisition and Control Module - Rear) - SAMH203 (Signal Acquisition and Control Module - Rear) - MT/AT) B1043 - Terminal 30: undervoltage < 8 V - Permanent B1093 - Malfunction in CAN communication with control unit Left frontal entrance. If a fault code appears without any documented complaints or problems, clear the fault memory and conduct a function check - Permanent B1045 - Permanent Overvoltage B1078 - Communication fault with alarm signal siren, possibly due to an additional battery issue or cable malfunction. - Indelible B1044 - Terminal 30: permanent undervoltage below 10.5 V B1066 - Left turn signal; short circuit or open circuit - Permanent B1089 - Malfunction in CAN communication with the instrument cluster control unit. If a fault code appears without any documented issues or malfunctions, clear the fault memory and conduct a functional check - Permanent B1054 - Left stop light; short circuit or open circuit - Permanent fault B1091 - Malfunction in CAN communication with the AAC pushbutton control unit. In the event of a fault code appearing without any documented complaints or failures, clear the fault memory and conduct a functional check. - Enduring

I suspect that the parking brake was engaged during the reset. Did they replace both the front and rear brake pads?

What symptoms are you experiencing?

Each E39 that is restored and maintained in operational condition brings me joy.

You may reset it by disconnecting the negative battery terminal for 10 minutes.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=maf sensor&campid=5338181132&customid=2518X1570512X4861dcd0c021bdde75eea8eb0758e1a7&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&subId2=15&toolid=10001

Does a new MAF sensor require coding or is it plug-and-play?

I reconstructed and evaluated the pump approximately 12 months ago and encased it in plastic to ensure its dryness, so I anticipate it will be satisfactory. I am awaiting a slight improvement in the weather before commencing the disassembly, as it is quite cold in the North. I have observed that detaching the trim panels on the gearbox tunnel provides access to a mechanism for unlocking the locker lid. Is this accurate? I have detached the trim panel from the front of the locker; nevertheless, access is very limited. If the removal of the gearbox tunnel trim panel is indeed feasible, I will likely pursue that option. The vario roof is also inoperative, which I believe relies on a separate pump located atop the PSE pump. It appears unusual that both pumps have ceased functioning simultaneously, prompting me to consider a fuse or relay issue.

The varioroof has been inspected and is non-functional. The issue may be linked to the pump in the trunk. Is this fused, or is there a relay attached with it? If possible, please include the fuse/relay number and its position.

All was functioning properly with the central locking system until the onset of the cold snap. My SL350 was exposed to the elements for several days and became thoroughly frozen. Subsequently, when attempting to unlock with the key fob, there was no response. Utilised the emergency key to access the vehicle and successfully opened the trunk. The battery was inspected and deemed functional; however, it was charged overnight as a precaution. I suspected a fuse issue, so I removed the fuses related to the central locking system, but they were functioning well. The fuses for these boxes are situated in the engine compartment. Access to the fuses in the fuse box located behind the driver's seat is obstructed due to the central locking mechanism securing the lid of the cubby box. Upon use the key fob, the lights flash as though the vehicle is being locked or unlocked, and the alarm system is simultaneously engaged. Nonetheless, the doors remain unlocked, and the side mirrors do not retract. Do you have any suggestions? Is there a method to access the cubby box located under the seat to get the fuses? Is there a control module that manages the locking and unlocking of doors?

I possess a 2021 GLC equipped with Michelin Pilot Sport SUV tires (non-runflat) and have not seen this issue whatsoever. I suspect there was a modification for the suspension of certain earlier vehicles, but I cannot confirm this with certainty. I admire these vehicles; best of luck with yours.

In Sweden, towing is not encompassed within the warranty but is instead part of the assistance coverage or can be added as an endorsement to the car insurance. If you possess such coverage, the vehicle will be transported to the nearest authorised service provider. Assistance is included for the initial three years, with an additional year granted for each service performed at a Mazda dealership. Therefore, I recommend examining the specifics of the towing coverage.

Given that the engine has 200,000 miles, the oil may require a longer duration to return due to the accumulation of sludge and other debris in the drainage channels. Consequently, the drainage process may exceed one hour, contingent upon the internal state of the engine. Maintain the fluid level at three-quarters when cold, and fill it to the maximum when cold after standing overnight to avoid any complications.

If your iDrive indicates 3/4 and your dipstick also reads 3/4 when cold, then the iDrive is accurate.

Furthermore, do not refuel your vehicle with oil immediately after it has been operated. Allow all oil to return to the sump for approximately 30 minutes, then fill to the maximum level. Performing this action immediately after using the engine sometimes leads to overfilling, as the maximum level may be reached while an additional 4 to 5 litres remain above the sump, yet to drain down.

As the vehicle operates, oil circulates to the upper engine components, including the turbocharger, resulting in a decrease in the sump level, where the dipstick is located. After around 30 minutes, the oil returns to the sump and registers a higher level on the dipstick. entirely typical

I consistently utilise the LR Remote application on my smartphone to preheat my Evoque P300e. This provides the option to utilise either the petrol engine or the electric vehicle batteries. When at home, I utilise the EV battery while ensuring that the charger is connected and activated, allowing the vehicle to draw power from the mains energy instead of exhausting the EV battery.

I have exceeded 32,000 miles. My existing tires are on the verge of replacement; but, with winter approaching, I want to replace them now. We travel extensively between home and several locations around the Midwest, making the time seem justifiable. I selected the Pirellis. The commentary in this discussion was really beneficial. I saved more than $400 and believe I acquired an excellent tyre. Further updates will follow when I assess their performance.

I am now changing the tires on my 2024 CX-90. My choice is between the Michelin CC2s or the Pirelli Scorpion Weatheractives. Nonetheless, in both instances, our local dealer advises that they do not adhere to OEM requirements. They instead propose a tyre that I do not want. We reside in Minnesota and like winter-rated all-season tires. Any guidance is welcomed!

Typically, they possess two or three fittings (for the pressure switch) and are secured with a bracket. It is essential to install the new dryer promptly after detaching the fittings, since it will begin to collect moisture from the ambient upon removal. If it only seems unclean, although your air conditioning functions well, do not intervene.