Gianni682

🥲

I am currently in Harrogate, North Yorkshire.

What is your location?

The DPF has been removed and reprogrammed, and the EGR has been deactivated, sealed, and disconnected.

The error is as follows... Hello everyone, I have been experiencing an intermittent issue with my 2008 Mini 1.6 HDi for an extended period. 3F6F air mass sensor, mass value implausible Any attempts I have made to rectify the situation have proven ineffective. I replaced the MAF sensor, but it made no difference. Turbo is new; all intercooler piping and vacuum lines have been inspected or replaced, and the intercooler appears to be in satisfactory condition. Replaced the boost solenoid Replaced the inlet manifold along with new seals. Installed a pre-owned throttle body and a new boost sensor. This error is entirely arbitrary. I can drive 1 mile before it enters limp mode, or 150 miles till it enters limp mode. Power cycling resolves the issue. The only aspect I have not investigated is the injector seals, as there is no evidence of black death surrounding the injectors. The vehicle has undergone DPF removal, EGR system deactivation, and has been reprogrammed and disconnected. The vehicle idles smoothly, produces minimal smoke, and delivers excellent fuel efficiency. Any suggestions? Thank you.

Register the vehicle on Motorway or Carwow. It will provide insight into the trading values. This provides insight into the desired selling price. Best of luck

33mm will protrude beyond the advised dimensions. Most Mercedes wheels are positioned too deeply inside the wheel arches for my preference, necessitating spacers for an aesthetically pleasing appearance; hence, an extension of around 10mm may enhance the visual appeal.

Indeed, that was somewhat the case.

I consider myself fortunate to be retired and own many vehicles, allowing me the opportunity to contemplate matters without pressure. As is often the case, if I were to do another, it would be far simpler and more expedient (albeit it is unlikely that I would do so again). 😉🤞

Indeed, as you said, it is a snug fit. I successfully extracted it, but I had to detach the coolant pipes and the fan housing, which was not referenced in any YouTube videos or postings. This facilitated the removal of the alternator and turbo, eliminating the need to disassemble the exhaust manifold.

Bi-Turbo

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=exhaust manifold&campid=5338181132&customid=2518X1570512X13f22be18d8a93df5a44de5c9659c191&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&subId2=15&toolid=10001

Thank you for your comment. Given the dearth of replies and little assistance on YouTube about a C Class, it can be inferred that few individuals are willing to attempt the removal of the turbocharger. It seems much more convenient when using a Mercedes van. After some frustration, I successfully extracted it without having to remove the exhaust manifold.

I have chosen to attempt the removal of the turbo, and as others have said, it is not a straightforward task. Nonetheless, I have now detached the turbo but am encountering difficulties in removing it. I have used YouTube and Haynes to get this point, but now I need other methods. Some assert that it is possible to rotate the turbo out, which I cannot do, while others claim that it is necessary to remove the exhaust manifold and disconnect the EGR. Has anybody extracted one from a C-Class diesel equipped with a 651 engine? Nothing has proven straightforward, and the removal of the manifold is as challenging due to the concealed EGR bolts. Could someone please provide guidance on how to detach the exhaust manifold heat shield, which seems to be clipped? I believe it must be removed in order to take off the manifold. Thank you

Hi, I too had a problem wit the engine to my 2021 tryumph but everything was solved quickly. Regards

I appreciate the suggestion. I will certainly search for it. Are there any other concerns to be aware of? I have not acquired a new automobile in over two decades.

Indeed, I did. I explicitly requested a tan inside with a machine grey exterior. He needed to locate one and deliver it to his dealership. I may be resigned to whatever actions he takes against me. Assume a bent position and grasp your ankles.

Excellent information! Thank you.

A few of hours later, the issue is that the 3.3 Turbo S Premium Plus in my desired colour is now scarce.

I am purchasing a new CX-90 Turbo S Premium Plus on Friday at my local dealership. Do you have any suggestions for acquiring it at the lowest feasible cost? Or at the at least, avoid being exploited? They are offering me a discount of $3,000 off the list price, which I assume is the current norm for Mazda. Are they really steadfast about the price? Are there other benefits I should advocate for? I am presenting a prospective trade-in, but I am willing to sell it independently. Any guidance would be welcomed!

If the vehicle is equipped with Stop/Start technology, it must utilise an AGM battery. The battery should be labelled for verification purposes.

Thank you for your response. I am really sorry to learn that your father succumbed to dementia; it is a dreadful affliction that profoundly affects not just the individual but also has a significant and enduring influence on those who remain. An air leak is a compelling proposition. Thank you for that.

I much appreciate the idea. That should have been considered. Completed as required. Here is the link:

My father had a 530i with a 53 registration plate. Regrettably, he died two years ago, and due to dementia, ceased driving around 18 months before to his passing. For several reasons, his automobile has been idle in his garage since that time. However, I have now focused on it, aiming to initiate progress and transfer it. The vehicle starts and operates smoothly when the engine reaches around 1500-2000 rpm. However, if I release the accelerator and allow the engine to idle, it exhibits significant instability at 750 rpm, fluctuating in speed many times before stalling. When I gradually reduce the throttle till reaching idle, the engine remains somewhat unstable, exhibiting minor fluctuations in power, however it does not stall. I have refuelled it, replaced the coolant, and installed a new battery. Do you have any hypotheses or recommendations on the situation? I own a video of it, but I am uncertain whether I may upload it here. I will attempt it. Thank you for your assistance.