Gianni682

33mm will protrude beyond the advised dimensions. Most Mercedes wheels are positioned too deeply inside the wheel arches for my preference, necessitating spacers for an aesthetically pleasing appearance; hence, an extension of around 10mm may enhance the visual appeal.

Indeed, that was somewhat the case.

I consider myself fortunate to be retired and own many vehicles, allowing me the opportunity to contemplate matters without pressure. As is often the case, if I were to do another, it would be far simpler and more expedient (albeit it is unlikely that I would do so again). 😉🤞

Indeed, as you said, it is a snug fit. I successfully extracted it, but I had to detach the coolant pipes and the fan housing, which was not referenced in any YouTube videos or postings. This facilitated the removal of the alternator and turbo, eliminating the need to disassemble the exhaust manifold.

Bi-Turbo

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=exhaust manifold&campid=5338181132&customid=2518X1570512X13f22be18d8a93df5a44de5c9659c191&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&subId2=15&toolid=10001

Thank you for your comment. Given the dearth of replies and little assistance on YouTube about a C Class, it can be inferred that few individuals are willing to attempt the removal of the turbocharger. It seems much more convenient when using a Mercedes van. After some frustration, I successfully extracted it without having to remove the exhaust manifold.

I have chosen to attempt the removal of the turbo, and as others have said, it is not a straightforward task. Nonetheless, I have now detached the turbo but am encountering difficulties in removing it. I have used YouTube and Haynes to get this point, but now I need other methods. Some assert that it is possible to rotate the turbo out, which I cannot do, while others claim that it is necessary to remove the exhaust manifold and disconnect the EGR. Has anybody extracted one from a C-Class diesel equipped with a 651 engine? Nothing has proven straightforward, and the removal of the manifold is as challenging due to the concealed EGR bolts. Could someone please provide guidance on how to detach the exhaust manifold heat shield, which seems to be clipped? I believe it must be removed in order to take off the manifold. Thank you

Hi, I too had a problem wit the engine to my 2021 tryumph but everything was solved quickly. Regards

I appreciate the suggestion. I will certainly search for it. Are there any other concerns to be aware of? I have not acquired a new automobile in over two decades.

Indeed, I did. I explicitly requested a tan inside with a machine grey exterior. He needed to locate one and deliver it to his dealership. I may be resigned to whatever actions he takes against me. Assume a bent position and grasp your ankles.

Excellent information! Thank you.

A few of hours later, the issue is that the 3.3 Turbo S Premium Plus in my desired colour is now scarce.

I am purchasing a new CX-90 Turbo S Premium Plus on Friday at my local dealership. Do you have any suggestions for acquiring it at the lowest feasible cost? Or at the at least, avoid being exploited? They are offering me a discount of $3,000 off the list price, which I assume is the current norm for Mazda. Are they really steadfast about the price? Are there other benefits I should advocate for? I am presenting a prospective trade-in, but I am willing to sell it independently. Any guidance would be welcomed!

If the vehicle is equipped with Stop/Start technology, it must utilise an AGM battery. The battery should be labelled for verification purposes.

Thank you for your response. I am really sorry to learn that your father succumbed to dementia; it is a dreadful affliction that profoundly affects not just the individual but also has a significant and enduring influence on those who remain. An air leak is a compelling proposition. Thank you for that.

I much appreciate the idea. That should have been considered. Completed as required. Here is the link:

My father had a 530i with a 53 registration plate. Regrettably, he died two years ago, and due to dementia, ceased driving around 18 months before to his passing. For several reasons, his automobile has been idle in his garage since that time. However, I have now focused on it, aiming to initiate progress and transfer it. The vehicle starts and operates smoothly when the engine reaches around 1500-2000 rpm. However, if I release the accelerator and allow the engine to idle, it exhibits significant instability at 750 rpm, fluctuating in speed many times before stalling. When I gradually reduce the throttle till reaching idle, the engine remains somewhat unstable, exhibiting minor fluctuations in power, however it does not stall. I have refuelled it, replaced the coolant, and installed a new battery. Do you have any hypotheses or recommendations on the situation? I own a video of it, but I am uncertain whether I may upload it here. I will attempt it. Thank you for your assistance.

I lack sufficient space in my vehicle to accommodate the 200 CDs included on the little USB stick.

The brushes in the starting motor may be completely worn if it is the original component. My M47 failed to start one day after returning from a store. Disassembled the starter, leaving just the braided brush wires. No previous notice of non-initiation. Had I attended to it a little sooner, replacement brushes would have sufficed; but, the wires had somewhat damaged the commutator, necessitating the complete replacement of the starter with a new Bosch unit, acquired at an excellent price from an eBay vendor. When the AA arrived to aid with my inability to start the vehicle, I had difficulties in bump-starting my car using a tow, as I pressed the clutch and repeatedly activated the start button in an attempt to ignite the engine. Unless I was mistaken, the vehicle would not initiate merely by towing, compressing the clutch, pushing the start button, and thereafter releasing the clutch, if you get my meaning.

Hello everyone, I own a Mercedes E350 Bluetec. I replaced the fuel pump and diesel filter, but the engine would not start; it cranks but does not ignite. The gasoline line has been unplugged at the filter, and petrol is trickling out upon ignition; however, it ceases to flow when the engine is cranked. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

This vehicle is from the year 2010.

Is it a legitimate coil or a counterfeit? If it is legitimate, then it is undoubtedly a favourable alternative.

I seek assistance from someone. I want to change the ignition coils on my 318i E90 N43. The OEM number is 12137559842, and I am enquiring if the below component would be acceptable: 413110180 from Euro Car Parts. Euro Car Parts online indicates compatibility while inputting the vehicle registration; yet, the component seems rather dissimilar to the original. Does anybody possess any counsel? Thank you in advance!