honeycut_mazda5

LOL. If that's how you felt, I apologize :-). The SA kept telling me the filter is unserviceable, so I had to look into it more. I remembered seeing a YouTube video of a person fixing a filter, so I knew it was possible. I though I'd share it in case anybody else needed a primer on what a transmission filter and pan look like. Thank you very much for your assistance, and for providing the resources you mentioned.

I just finished calling the dealership's service department to inquire about having the pan lowered and the filter changed. The Service Advisor emphasized that by completing the swap, they would be able to remove more of the old fluid and replace it with fresh fluid (about 12 quarts). He said the filter is beyond repair, yet I've seen it replaced in action on YouTube.

After the ATF swap at Jiffy Lube, you still attribute the shaking (bouncing) to contaminated fluid? Should I have the dealership lower the pan and replace the filter instead of repairing the transmission mount?

I brought my CX-9 to a Jiffy Lube since that particular shop does not provide the more advanced services like as ATF exchange, flush, pan drop, and filter replacement. I'm not certain that getting a new transmission mount would fix the problems I've been having. The service adviser assured me that the technician did not suspect a problem with my transmission, which is excellent news, but he did not determine the root of the issue. Even if the price tag is so high, I think I have no choice but to follow the advice I was given.

Many thanks! The absence of a check engine light is something I should have highlighted.

The 2016 CX-9 I was driving shook violently while on the road. In addition, there seems to be a difficulty with changing between low and high gears. The distance was about 101,000 kilometers. Based on my findings, it seems like it could be time to change the Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF). When I took it in for service at 101k miles, they informed me the fluid would likely last the lifetime of the car. The problem with changing into higher ratios disappeared when I had Jiffy Lube replace the transmission fluid. Since then, the transmission has shuddered three times and the shifting has not improved in low levels. Went and dropped it off at the Mazda dealer. The technician took it for a spin on the road and reported no hard shift or shaking (which happens seldom). When accelerating in first through third gear, though, he also heard a harsh rubbing noise. He also discovered oil seeping from the driver-side transmission mount, and hypothesized that this was the source of the unpleasant rubbing sound. The technician suggested swapping out the mount. The price of the component and the labor to install it was $899 before taxes. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it will solve the problem. I don't know whether the mount is related to the shaking or not. I was wondering if anybody else had a similar experience. Thanks.

I was previously under the impression that the valve problem had been resolved starting from 2006; nevertheless, it seems that this is not the case. There have been reports indicating that individuals who own 2006 vehicles have had a similar issue, as seen by a post shared on the Mazda6 Club platform. The only solution seems to involve the installation of a secondary positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve in tandem with the existing one. In addition to this, regular replacement of the valve may provide a certain level of protection. It seems that the majority of Mazda6 S vehicles have not had any adverse effects from this matter, since there have been no reports of recalls or technical service bulletins (TSBs) addressing this particular problem. It is possible that Mazda has implemented measures to mitigate the occurrence of this issue. To yet, I have had no issues; however, I am diligent in regularly monitoring my oil level and ensuring the absence of any anomalous engine sounds. This probable outcome may be attributed to the presence of a component valued at $12.00. The valve used by Mazda exhibits dissimilar characteristics in comparison to the valve utilized by Ford, and no instances of analogous complications with the V6 Fusion have come to my attention. **Revised to include** I propose a theoretical framework that has the potential to provide a comprehensive view on the subject matter at hand. There is a perception that the PCV valve exhibits a standard failure rate and is not disproportionately prone to malfunction compared to other brands. Given the absence of an abnormally elevated occurrence rate, there would be no need for a recall or Technical Service Bulletin (TSB). In the event of valve failure, there is a possibility of experiencing significant repercussions, maybe necessitating the replacement of the engine.

To the best of my knowledge, no Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) or recalls have been issued pertaining to this issue. Has the engine shown any auditory indications such as knocking or ticking sounds?

To be honest, I've never had a BMW with enough lighting up front.

Check out this brand new topic while you're at it.

Clean them well and spray them with gt5c; don't worry about the cost or quantity. Still, it's bloody excellent. You may obtain cleaning supplies at autosmart.

Whenever I took my vehicle in for a Service B, the mechanics would switch out the battery in the key fob and provide me with a brand new one to install in the spare.

I've been having trouble with what I thought was a broken wheel bearing for a long time. I took the car in for a service, but Mazda couldn't find anything wrong with it. They blamed it on the V-shaped wheel. I wasn't sure, but the noise was so bad that I thought about leaving. After doing a lot of study, I took the plunge the other day and put a pair of Matador tyres on the front. WOW, what a change! The car is much quieter now, and the only noise I hear is from the two rear tyres I didn't replace. I'll do that next month. Go to Tyre Reviews and read the Matador excellent reviews there.

Bienvenue au site! Glad to see you joined us. As I'm sure you're aware, we've been around for a while, so the majority of your questions have likely already been addressed:) As Willpower might state: Also discovered in a search. It's a very useful feature.

Since air conditioning evaporates moisture from the air, it provides a natural solution to the problem. When there's just one person in the vehicle and we're only going to be driving about for a short period of time, I can get by without air conditioning on a wet day.

Due to the vehicle's very low mileage, I would verify that the DPF and EGR have been serviced, and I would also make sure that it has recently had its oil changed. If you aren't planning on any of these things, I would have severe qualms about purchasing this car: To avoid active regens of the DPF, you must have driven at least 10 000 miles with the most of those miles being lengthy travels (over 20 miles) and very few short excursions from cold. Alternatively, you must have driven well over 20 000 miles each year with the majority of those miles being longer journeys. This is particularly important if you are unable to continue driving until the active regen is finished.