colinallcars

I went ahead with the Civic. Arrived this afternoon and I’m honestly relieved,logbook was there, and the driver was polite. Already booked it in for a service tomorrow just to be safe. Thanks all for sharing your thoughts helped me make the call.

I'm interested in this as well if anyone has more info, please share, as I'm really keen on the Civic. I just need a bit of reassurance, no offence @Black_raven

That’s interesting. Did you have to pay upfront before they sent the car out? That’s the bit that’s making me a bit nervous.

Evening folks, Been browsing around for a decent second-hand car and spotted a Honda Civic on eBay listed by a company called Carwin Transport I’m based in Cardiff, so they’ve offered to have it shipped down to me within 7–10 days. They told me it’s a repo vehicle, which on paper seems like a decent opportunity the price looks fair and the process sounds good enough. The thing is I’ve never gone down this route before so I don’t really know what to expect. Has anyone here actually dealt with Carwin Transport directly, or bought a car this way?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=tyre pressures&campid=5338181132&customid=2518X1570512X93f66208634d967db7545821fe056d3f&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&subId2=15&toolid=10001

I would first verify the tire pressures. Does the vehicle possess run-flat tires? I would next take the vehicle to an independent expert equipped with STAR to update the software on all accessible ECU modules—engine, gearbox, suspension, etc.—provided the car is not remapped.

Which automobile? Your biography states "W212 E250 CDI, A238 E53".

Understood, I will try to clarify more. The codes I refer to are Maintenance codes shown on your instrument cluster as an A or B followed by the numbers 1 to 7. The indicators will not manifest until your oil life declines below 15%; however, you may pick the wrench icon to check your current oil life and the forthcoming service associated with the oil change. The subsequent issue is carbon accumulation. Carbon is a byproduct of combustion and escalates with suboptimal fuel combination or combustion. Combustion does not occur in the throttle body or intake manifold until the engine backfires, at which juncture carbon becomes a minor concern. I am challenging the validity of the carbon claims. Brake fluid is hygroscopic. This indicates that it becomes contaminated immediately upon opening the container. The braking system is ventilated, allowing a certain level of moisture to enter the system continuously. Excessive water content by a certain percentage may induce corrosion in the callipers and brake lines, perhaps leading to pollutants resulting from this corrosion that may harm your ABS and other components. The fluid makers advise doing a flush every three years. The Vegas valley is dry and dirty (I previously resided in Centennial Hills), making it less probable for rainwater to reach critical saturation rapidly. Your vehicle may benefit from a flush, in my opinion. The air conditioning in Las Vegas is challenging. I discovered that using a quality legal ceramic tint, parking in shaded areas and employing a windscreen sunshade is the most effective strategy available. An efficient A/C service can assess your refrigerant levels and replenish them if necessary. If a leak is present, a dye may be introduced to identify the source. By the way, it is only Ducky, and spelling is irrelevant (as is gender).

You are correct in your distrust; yet, your 1.5L turbo engine is not suited for short journeys. A Maintenance Minder is also available to indicate the essential services required. Brake fluid has a service interval of code 7 or three years, whichever occurs first. The transmission is classified as code 3. Most individuals do a drain and fill every 30,000 miles. Inexpensive and straightforward. Additional information exists, however it is not relevant at this time. Carbon accumulation in the throttle body?

I lack confidence in "oil change" establishments, as they often employ inadequately qualified professionals. My father's final vehicle was impaired at a Mr. Lube establishment, and they failed to inform him while attempting to conceal the incident. To economise, a local mechanic is a superior choice. The expense will probably be lower than that of a dealership but higher than that of completely incompetent establishments. If you like to specify the oil, please bring it in. Nearly all mechanics will utilise the oil you provide.

There may be sediment at the bottom of the reservoir; thus, after removing the pump to drain the reservoir, insert a hose at the top and thoroughly flush the reservoir before reinstalling the pump

For reversing lights that are not visible from inside the vehicle! 🤔😂

I have no inclination to "upgrade" them, since I have never seen a need to do so.

New automobile... It is time for a new phone as well. 😉

I was informed in an EV3 UK group that the key card is unavailable in the UK. I am now perplexed.

Best of luck. I had a similar situation with a Range Rover trunk. A significant amount of drawing.

Your 12v battery is probably functioning properly; the BMS activates when the terminal voltage falls below 9 volts (at least this is true for my battery). It is improbable that a few interior lights would induce the issue; they normally consume a little fraction of an amp apiece (about 0.1 to 0.2), hence the battery should be capable of sustaining this load for an extended duration. I have already discussed this, but my vehicle has had this issue seven times in over four years, always occurring in areas with weak mobile phone reception and almost definitely during attempts to do a system update. This diagnosis was suggested by an AA recovery technician, who came to assist me. He indicated that he had encountered this issue frequently and believed it to be the most probable cause. This reasoning resonated with me, as the problem consistently occurred in areas with poor signal, regardless of whether the car was open, closed, locked, or unlocked. Being locked was perhaps the most inconvenient. Best of luck; however, I advise against investing on a new batteries and recommend acquiring a few booster packs instead.

No problems encountered from +35°C to -35°C. The air conditioning is consistently set to the "ON" position.

Your description suggests it is due to the engine rather than a driveline vibration. When I had vibration in the driveline of my old F11, it occurred at a certain pace rather than engine speed; hence, it persisted even with the clutch disengaged. What equipment was used for the scanning, and has any real-time data been examined during the occurrence of the issue?

In the last year or two, I have seen several unfavourable postings on Honda Marshall in three Honda forums. Perusal They deny any awareness of identified issues and demand payment. I used their services once, however once the postings were disseminated to Maidenhead Honda, their demeanour was much more favourable.

1. Anticipate an expenditure exceeding £300. 2. The specific service that is absent is unclear. The Year 4 service is extensive, including Service B (which includes the cabin filter), brake fluid replacement, air filter replacement, and either the replacement of spark plugs (for petrol engines) or the fuel filter (for diesel engines). The Year 5 service includes Service A, along with an ATF and filter replacement (if applicable to automatic transmissions). Do you possess the current printout of the DSB detailing the progress made so far? You may get them via MB, Febi online, several other sources, or you may choose to forgo their installation entirely. Are the wheels authentic MB wheels or aftermarket replacements?

I am very disheartened for you. As you said, it would likely be a write-off due to their unexpectedly low worth. This vehicle is very undervalued; I traded my 3.2s a few years ago and still regret it. The one consolation is that you may now engage in some numerical reasoning and get a 996. I hope you have a favourable outcome with your insurance; but, we are all aware of their tendencies. Inform us of your progress.

I saw that emulators for other models are priced around £10, however the 212 version is about £40 or £50.

Neither, indeed. There are no warning lights, just the text message shown on the speedometer.

On my 212, I have observed that the Passenger airbag malfunction alert sometimes appears on the dashboard while I am driving alone; however, this signal does not activate when there is an occupant in the passenger seat. I suspect a malfunction with the seat occupancy sensor; nonetheless, does anybody own other insights or experiences? Is there a simple solution or another approach? Salutations.