colinallcars

Affirmative. However, it is a costly installation due to the need to replace the whole engine.

I have heard that removing the catalytic converter or gutting it may significantly expand the capacity of the exhaust system. Lack of firsthand experience. I upgraded from the original factory headers, which had 1000-cell catalytic converters, to the LMS headers that are equipped with 200-cell catalytic converters. I also own a bespoke titanium exhaust system without a silencer. I perceived the level rise as inconspicuous, nonetheless, my wife and a few of my habitual weekend runners have asserted that it is presently exceedingly loud. Although not explicitly stated as irritating, they did acknowledge that there was a clear and undeniable rise.

It seems that I may have prematurely said that the issue was resolved, as it continues to occur. However, the problem now manifests as quick flashing for 2 or 3 times before returning to normal. This only occurs when I use the left indicator for the first time after the vehicle has been turned off. Subsequently, the indicator functions normally. The issue persists, but it has improved significantly. Therefore, more investigation is required, in my opinion.

For the last year, I have been experiencing a problem with the left indicator flashing fast. Recently, this has been more bothersome as I have been using it more often. To find a solution, I conducted some research on this platform and other sources. I considered many potential solutions, including inspecting the plugs on the rear fitting for signs of corrosion and replacing the bulb. However, none of these attempts were successful. Another suggestion was that the brown earth wire may be causing a short circuit or not properly grounding, but unfortunately, this did not resolve the issue either. After some consideration, I made the decision to remove the front indicator lens and inspect the bulb inside. It is worth noting that all three lights were flashing fast, indicating that none of them were blown. Upon removal, I saw that the wire was bent in a double-fold manner. A few years ago, I recall removing this lens while replacing the projector lenses in the main light. I wondered if I had accidentally trapped the wire when reinstalling it. It seems that was indeed the case, as when I reinstalled the indicator housing, I made sure to guide the wire carefully to avoid trapping it. As a result, the indicators no longer flash rapidly. I have conducted a series of manoeuvres, including left and right turns, navigating across islands, while using the indicators. It seems that the issue has now been resolved. Although not very thrilling, I believe this information may be beneficial to someone facing a similar issue in the future.

I feel the same way.

The following information is stored on my datacard

The datacard should have it.

Allow me to provide my thoughts on the topic of driving on sand. I reside in San Diego and have engaged in extensive off-road driving on the sandy beaches of Baja Mexico. I have conducted some preliminary tests with the DSC and TC configurations. I have discovered that driving the vehicle on the beach and sand dunes with the Dynamic Stability Control (DSC) deactivated yields superior results. The traction control (TC) seems to have a reduced interference, resulting in a little increase in wheel spin and improved driving performance. Be sure to turn it off when in the sand. Furthermore, on my last visit to the beach, my compressor was in a state of imminent failure, and I would sometimes have a yellow suspension error when driving on the sand. For optimal performance while driving at different speeds on sandy terrain and dunes, it is recommended to raise the suspension and activate the build mode. Additionally, it is advisable to turn off the DSC (Dynamic Stability Control) and choose the TR (Traction Control) mode specifically designed for sand. Enabling the construction mode in the truck transforms its handling characteristics to resemble those of a coil sprung truck, resulting in a firmer and more certain sensation while driving on sandy terrain. I have since rebuilt the compressor and plan to evaluate the suspension's reaction in sandy conditions using the new compressor, without activating the build mode.

I have seen several discussions on this topic, characterised by conflicting and contradictory facts. Looking forward to discovering a consensus among all of us! The user expressed approval with two thumbs-up emojis.

I believe I am comprehending the purpose of the function. However, are you all in disagreement on whether it should be switched on or off while driving off-road?

Greetings! I own a 2009 4.4 HSE L320 model. The truck lacks the specialised DSC suspension and sway bar handling equipment. I am curious about the function of the DSC button on the dashboard. I have conducted an extensive search but have been unable to locate a definitive solution. As I understand it, pressing the button enables the occurrence of wheel spin. What are the appropriate ways to use or avoid using that button in combination with terrain response selections? It is advisable to deactivate the traction control system while driving on sand in order to increase wheel spin, which might be beneficial in such conditions. However, does this increase the difficulty for the traction control (TC) system to apply the brake to the tyre that offers the least resistance, so reducing the effectiveness of both the TC and terrain response? Thank you!

I have acquired the Mazda soft bumper guard. I sometimes forget to lower it since it is positioned under the all-weather carpet in the trunk. In my opinion, the film is the optimal answer due to its constant presence and imperceptibility.

I too have had it for three years and it is still functioning well.

My thought would be either a turbocharger or a crankshaft.

The next step I would do is to inspect the battery connections located under the hood. If it is not securely fastened, it might be the cause of your issue.

Is it necessary to attach that unattractive cooling device to the front of those very pleasing clocks?

😂😂 That is an aesthetically pleasing modification.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/196067816050?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&campid=5338767356&toolid=10001&customid=130832X1595923Xc620924e4141146de1ca6882380b5d01

No association. I recently saw it while doing a brief search.

I would not recommend purchasing Ridex MAF since inexpensive components often have reliability problems. Adhere to the original specifications provided by the manufacturer. Remember to reset adaptations after changing components such as the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor.

Personally, I see any do-it-yourself solution as a temporary remedy to get me home, with the intention of having a professional repair it as soon as possible, rather than waiting for a long time for assistance to arrive. However, your mileage may vary.

Thank you! I have pondered the durability and strength of the tools included in these packages. I have saved this particular item since it has more 'prongs'. https://www.amazon.co.uk/CKAuto-Universal-Emergency-Puncture-Motorcycles/dp/B0BZXR8Z8J/

What was the level of complexity? I am inquiring since I will soon be transitioning from runflat tyres to regular tyres. Due to the lack of room in the BMW, the proposed solution is to carry a compressor and a repair kit that uses a string-based method to cure punctures. This choice is made since there is a lack of trust in the effectiveness of a can of sealant to repair a puncture.

This is where your hard-earned money is spent at the dealership.