torque2me

It is presumed that the boot lid of the vehicle in question also has an automated opening mechanism. The weight of the boot lid on the 400 model is very burdensome, making the act of lifting it rather astonishing.

No, I am required to use the button in order to elevate or descend. It seems that only those with SL500 vehicles own this particular feature, if I am not mistaken.

Several weeks ago, I had a similar issue. The solution involves ensuring that the boot is fully extended to its maximum position, therefore activating the microswitch responsible for enabling the functionality of the little red button. In the event that the boot is not completely open, the red button fails to do any function.

Mileage as of 2016: 8V 31,000

I had my vehicle serviced for injector replacement. I have not seen significant disparities. The negative impact of forced induction is mostly seen in non-applicable (N/A) automobiles, whereas its effects are relatively less significant in the context of forced induction.

My Suburban is equipped with Bosch Quiet Cast Ceramic pads and new Centric discs. After traveling a distance of 2200 miles, no issues or complications have been encountered.

There is a potential presence of mold in the air conditioning evaporator and pollen filter. It is recommended to do maintenance on the pollen filter and get an aerosol can of air conditioning treatment.

I had a similar issue and was on the verge of experiencing significant frustration. Ultimately, I successfully reset the opening mechanism and cleared all associated remote controls. The process was then started again. The system operated smoothly and executed according to its intended programming. The only concern was to the need of reprogramming all interconnected components. It is essential to establish a constraint on the quantity of remote controls that may be accommodated.

I am encountering a similar issue, and I am rather certain that the fan is the source of the problem. I have not yet conducted an examination. How was the issue resolved?

It would be advantageous to ascertain your geographical location, since dealerships are constrained from selling vehicles outside their designated sales territory, as doing so may jeopardize their allocations for new vehicle production. The dealership I am now patronizing in Pennsylvania does not impose markups nor does it mandate a trade-in. Conversely, another dealership I visited within the same city necessitated a trade-in, although offering a much undervalued trade-in value, in lieu of implementing markups. I had patiently awaited the arrival of an RRS PHEV for a duration of around 8 months. However, the manufacturing facility has ceased the fulfillment of all such orders due to the unavailability of engine-specific components. Consequently, the sales manager at the dealership with which I am engaged proposed an alternative solution by offering me a position in the queue for a gasoline engine variant. Consequently, I accepted this offer. I anticipate that the construction of my project will be completed within the next several days. I have limited complaints about the Dynamic SE trim, since it provides a cost-saving advantage of $25,000 compared to the AB trim.

Upon reporting the most recent cam reset, I observed that the check engine light exhibits a flashing behavior. Furthermore, when I endeavor to reset the window button located on the driver's door panel specifically for the front passenger door, it too displays a flashing pattern. What course of action should I pursue?

In what other contexts do oil galleys and coolant systems come into close proximity? The lower intake manifold gasket is often the source of the issue in several automobile models.

Do you think it's a parking lot light? Possibly extremely ancient Mazdas have this problem if the indicator was left on after turning off the engine. Which automobile you have in mind might help restrict the field...

The electrical systems in modern automobiles are comparable to those in modern smartphones and laptops, complete with LCD/OLED screen problems, etc.

It's probably repairable, but we can't know for sure since it's covered up. In any case, you should take off the joint seal to let the seam air out. The seal is failing because water is seeping beneath it and damaging the seam.

The shop will need to examine the seam after you remove the seam filler material. It's possible that the filler is masking an underlying issue.

Today's escalation follows yesterday's. They've agreed to pay nothing for the checkup and refill.

Yes, we gave them the component numbers and asked that the broken one be replaced. Instead, they filled up the gas tank. The two components work together closely. It's impossible for STAR to overlook it. When I relayed the situation to another dealership's service staff, they were more than happy to double-check the STAR results. I've had time to collect my thoughts. Simply said, it's quite annoying. That's ignoring a customer's request, skimping on STAR training, and working without permission. This old garage is history now. In the past, I've received a phone call asking for my approval before any work was started. You can't just recharge someone's AC, assure them there are no problems, and then hand them a bill. In particular, please get in touch with me before beginning any work. It's not permitted, period. This is a guarantee made on their website to customers. Sure, it won't leave you destitute. £200. The most costly fill-up in the world. The system wasn't totally dead or depleted. Their aim was off. I finally gave up yesterday after many phone calls explaining the confusion and conflicting details. They disregarded obvious evidence of something being true. As a gesture of goodwill, they offered to run another diagnostic on the problem at no cost. To what end? The issue has been laid out for you. Even with the heat on, you failed to double-check the air conditioner. After much back-and-forth, I finally resolved to either handle the situation on my own or go elsewhere for a dealer. In any case, I have had enough of this particular support center. We used to have a hot customer service department. Always. Since the top talent departed, things have degenerated.

My W205 C220d's air conditioner has ceased functioning. When the air conditioner was on, it made a ticking sound. The left-side (behind the glove box) air conditioning actuator mixer motor flashed a warning light when I connected to the vehicle. Increasing the thermostat setting had no effect, and air from each vent had a different temperature. Both maximum heat and maximum cold were available from the left vents. I also hooked up the AC and discovered the gas was running low. I made the reservation at Mercedes. After discussing my results, I saw whether the motor for the blender/actuator was available. It was. Great. I requested that they have the component on hand and use the error message as a guide. In the present. No one has called me to give me an update. No unauthorized work is to be done, as I have often indicated. For over a decade, I have relied on this service center with no issues.

That's very helpful, both of you!

Hi there. The wife's GLA 1.6 200 SE has some minor front passenger-side damage when she almost missed a bollard earlier today. However, the biggest problem is that the edge of the door is no longer flat with the connecting component (the wing?). Since the door generally slips beneath the metal of the wing, I can't open the passenger door. How bad is it, exactly? I'm taking it to the dealer soon, but how much of a hit should I expect (in terms of money)? Thanks!

Thank you, BigAl. Good observation regarding the diameters; I'll try to measure them later this week. Both wheels have five bolt holes, so I'll check whether they line up. My understanding was that wheels and their attachments were pretty standardised and that wheels were simply purchased from vendors by automobile makers, but that was just an assumption on my behalf.

How are you all? I'm new to both Mazda and not having an extra tyre, just like the OP. I just got a CX-5, but it doesn't have an extra tyre. The car it's replacing will be taken to the junkyard, and that one has a 16" spacesaver spare in the trunk that looks brand new. I'm thinking about keeping the 16" space saver from my old car and putting it in the back of the CX-5 as a spare. The CX-5 has 19" wheels and is the SportNav version. Since CX-5s with 19-inch wheels can get a 17-inch space saver, would a 16-inch space saver get you home in an emergency, or is that going too far? Best wishes