DMGRS

I just acquired a pre-owned 2013 B8.5 S5 equipped with the 3.0T engine, and I am really pleased. The previous owner has completed all necessary engine modifications, and I need your insights. I previously possessed a catted straight-piped B8 S5 equipped with a V8 engine and appreciated its auditory characteristics. Naturally, I did not anticipate the V8 timbre; however, I assumed that with the FBO Stage 2+ APR, test pipes, and various modifications, this vehicle would produce some degree of crackle, burble, pop, or feedback. Unfortunately, there is none due to the Borla cat-back exhaust, which includes mufflers and, I believe, resonators. I like the sound of burbling and am enquiring about potential actions I should take. A - remove the silencer from the Borla exhaust and anticipate achieving the desired outcome. Transition from the APR stage 2+ tune to the 034 tune, since both Jackal and APR lack crackling characteristics in their configurations. Thank you, everyone!

Most likely. From my recollection, I changed the original OEM battery on my 2006 C55 when it was around 13 years old. Despite its age, the battery was still functioning well. I decided to replace it as a precautionary measure. Additionally, at that time, ECP was offering significant discounts on Bosch batteries, which made it a logical choice for me. I had replenished it with distilled water on many occasions. Do you recall when batteries had that feature?! The year is 2006. The prevailing agreement for batteries in contemporary automobiles is around 5 years, which is very environmentally friendly. Recently, I provided assistance to a buddy in resolving many issues with his Nissan Pick up truck. Installing a new battery resolved all of the issues...the vehicle is 4 years old.

Greetings.I own a 2016 Mercedes-Benz CLS with a 2.1-liter turbocharged diesel engine. I would want to know if this particular model is equipped with a timing belt or timing chain. If it does have a timing belt, I would also like to know the recommended mileage interval for replacing it. Thank you.

I purchased the stock hitch and wiring from the online parts shop of my local Mazda dealership at a reduced price. The original Mazda hitch had a price of around $400, while the factory 7 round wire harness was priced at $150. I intended to do the installation myself, but they proposed a fee of $350. Due to my lack of knowledge about the attachment of the driver's side rear trim panels and my concern about potentially causing damage, I decided to accept their offer to do the task, since it requires accessing the area near the back door. Towing mode can only be activated after connecting the trailer wire.

Approximately every quarter.

Aberdeenshire, Scotland

As previously stated, all seals, including the mechatronic sleeve, were replaced.

Greetings, gentlemen. The automobile is a BMW e60 530d 2008 with a power output of 173kw and lci. Occasionally, the zf6hp26 automatic gearbox is experiencing malfunctions. I have had this issue, namely a gearbox malfunction, several times while travelling on a highway. The scenario is as follows: I am driving at a speed of 70mph in the 6th gear. However, when I attempt to accelerate further, the gear cannot be downshifted, resulting in the activation of the LIMP mode. This mode causes a loss of power and restricts me to using only the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd (or 4th, depending on the speed at which the issue occurred) gears. Subsequently, I halt, deactivate, and reactivate the engine, resulting in its flawless operation once again, encompassing all six gears. However, if I attempt to accelerate and transfer gears after driving at a speed of 60mph for a few minutes, the vehicle reverts back to LIMP mode. If I am experiencing a cycle of acceleration, deceleration, and then acceleration again, it indicates that the gears are functioning properly. When I drive at a consistent pace for a short period of time, I notice that the RPM arrow on the dashboard moves erratically instead of indicating a gear change when I push the accelerator. If I continue to accelerate, the vehicle ultimately attempts to shift gears but fails, resulting in a fault. Furthermore, I have observed that while I am driving uphill with the cruise control engaged, it ceases to function and displays a deactivation message on the dashboard. However, I am able to maintain the same speed by applying pressure to the gas pedal, but if I push too forcefully, it results in a loss of power and triggers a transmission fault. The oil, pans, and all the seals were replaced, but it did not provide any improvement. The clutch is in good condition. I suspect that the mechatronic component is the root cause of the problem. However, is there a method to precisely identify the specific malfunction? Hopefully it is comprehensible, I used my utmost effort to explain the problem. Expressing gratitude

The app was malfunctioning till recently. Previously, it would download without any issues, but subsequently, it ceased to do so. Upon clicking to download, the system indicates that the download process has begun, but then fails to complete. The downloaded file cannot be located anywhere on the mobile device. iPhone 15 Pro. I have attempted it on 10 separate occasions before to writing this essay. Regardless of the service report I choose, it failed to operate on the first 7 attempts. However, it has suddenly unexpectedly started functioning. Upon receiving notification of the download's completion, I proceed to display the file and have the option to send it via email. The item is not located anywhere on the phone.

Thank you, friend. It seems that the connectors are of the push fit variety. I need to replace the rear air suspension bags on my S211. I have seen a gradual decrease in the rear suspension height during really cold winter months, but not as much during the summer. I will also inspect the lines of my S211 for microfractures. 👍🙂

Thank you much for this topic, it is quite beneficial.👍 Regarding the lines, can they be acquired via an authorised dealership of MB? Additionally, how do the lines interconnect or link together? Additionally, is there a reservoir located in close proximity to the subframe inside the system?

Warm engines have variations in tolerances, which may impact compression. However, you said that there is an excessive amount of compression. Is that correct? You need to get the figures from him in order to determine if they are low, high, or within the typical range.

whether the engine has worn piston rings, it might lead to difficulties in starting. However, how can he determine whether the piston rings are really worn? Was a compression test performed on it?

I believe it is not possible to do such action using Kia Connect. Upon accessing the automobile settings, the display will be shown. This is my most recent version:

Does that aid in purging the system?

Is it worthwhile to try using Wynn's additive?

Yesterday evening, after resolving the codes, my son successfully completed a round trip to Southampton today. Upon his return, none of the engine-related errors were shown. The only code that remained undamaged was: The ESP system has detected a defect in the signal coming from component B64/1, which is the brake vacuum sensor. Last night, a code was presented which I attempted to clear today. However, I was unable to remove it today, despite being able to do it last night. What is the collective opinion of the hive? Is there a malfunctioning sensor? Basic repair? Or is there something more fundamental and complex that requires further examination? Despite having additional systems, the Mercedes has far less codes compared to my wife's Ford Focus.

Today, when driving his C220CDI Coupe, Son noticed a decrease in power. Furthermore, I saw a conspicuous wet streak on the driveway today, which remained visible on the granite stones despite the unfavourable weather conditions. Enclosed herewith is a screenshot of the codes that were read using my recently acquired Xtool D8W scanner. All codes were recorded as saved, and after erasing them and starting the engine, no indications of their presence were seen. Do you have any suggestions or recommendations to assist him? One individual has proposed the possibility of a split hoover hose.

Similar claims are made concerning Kia. The Clio was an exceptionally pleasant automobile with several appealing features.

It seems to be rather intricate. I like the configuration of the Renault Clio, since it allowed for the deactivation of keyless entry by simply using the lock button on the remote. This feature was straightforward and convenient.

Although not often used, this feature may be valuable in situations when an inconsiderate individual parks directly up to your driver's side door. During the 18 months that I have had it, I have only had to use it a few times. However, it is worth noting that people tend to give you strange glances when you stand still and wait for your vehicle to come to you, instead of getting to the car yourself.

Thank you for providing a clear explanation of the intended use of the target AFR table! Spending a significant amount of time on the video-sharing platform YouTube and an introduction to the concept of Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI). The HP academy course has not provided a good explanation of the topic. I need to invest in a professional tuning session for my automobile on a dynamometer, but where is the enjoyment in that!

The table is quite coarse, I concur. Despite the many spikes on the table, the driving experience is unexpectedly smooth. However, I fully concur that the VE table requires significant more effort to get a smoother performance. Thank you for the thoroughness of your answer and the VE table you provided. I will not replicate your VE table since I acknowledge that each engine and configuration is unique, which might impact the engine's efficiency. My understanding is that I need to get some logs and manually adjust my VE (Volumetric Efficiency) in order to achieve my desired goal Air-Fuel Ratios (AFR). Striving to maintain a consistent table without fluctuations of 20 units, as it now has. Make sure that this table is positioned in close proximity to my objectives, and then activate the closed loop function, completely disregarding the VE auto adjustment capability. I am somewhat perplexed by the use of target Air-Fuel Ratio (AFR) vs the Volumetric Efficiency (VE) chart. It seems that you are neglecting the target table while configuring the VE table. However, the target AFR table is used in determining the amount of fuel to inject, with VE also being taken into account. A report on the underlying reason for the sudden increase in VE. I adjusted the fuel mixture of the vehicle to a higher richness level during my commute to work, specifically at a boost level of 11.5. This allowed me to optimise the performance by correcting the fuel mixture in the areas where it was too rich at 5000rpm. As a result, I was able to consistently achieve my desired performance goals, which was not the case while aiming a richness level of 12. Tonight, I will focus on improving the overall smoothness of the table. Afterwards, I will implement closed loop control on the ECU, allowing for tiny real-time modifications. Would a range of 5-10% be suitable for this purpose?

Greetings, I have been fine-tuning the performance of my supercharged 1.6 engine on the road. I am using a donor engine with a fully undisclosed past, save for the fact that it had oil when I purchased it. The vehicle is maintaining a consistent and stable performance in terms of reaching my Air-Fuel Ratio (AFR) objectives. However, the autotune feature is persistently attempting to increase the amount of fuel at 5000rpm and 140kpa. I am genuinely perplexed over the cause of this. Regardless of the desired air-fuel ratio (AFR) or ignition timing, I failed to see this anomaly on my previous engine. I have experimented with ignition timing ranging from 11.8 to 12.3, as well as anywhere between 13.5 and 17 degrees, in these specific ranges. Autotune continues to inject more fuel in order to achieve the desired air-fuel ratio (AFR). Occasionally, a run may result in a rich mixture, leading me to suspect the presence of an intermittent issue. The car is equipped with a coil on plug system, utilising BK7RE spark plugs with a gap of 0.8mm and 0.6mm. No noticeable change was seen between the two gap sizes. The problem persists when utilising the conventional ignition system and BK6RE spark plugs with a 1mm gap. The injectors are EV14 with a capacity of 550cc. The intake temperatures range from 20 to 40 degrees Celsius, which is within a reasonable and safe range. I am open to any and all advise to improve the smoothness of this VE table. I am willing to test any suggestions. I have received suggestions that the issue may be a misfire, but I have conducted tests on several ignition systems, plugs, and gaps, and I believe I have eliminated that possibility. What is the procedure for monitoring fuel pressure while in motion? The user's text is incomplete.The automobile has excellent performance and operates smoothly without any problems at higher revolutions per minute (rpm).