Doncaster34

Prior to lifting the vehicle, it is imperative to deactivate the air suspension. With the ignition activated, depress the "UNLOCK" button on the gear shifter and simultaneously press the "AIR SUSPENSION" button for five seconds until "Jacking Mode" is shown on the dashboard. Subsequently, employ your jack.

Utilise the puck/saddle pad exclusively with a trolley jack, ensuring it features a groove that aligns with the cill rail/seam between the dimples. The rubber prevents the jack from harming the cill and diminishes the likelihood of the automobile or jack slipping.

The CLK (c209) has an identical system; if a unit is present, it will be located in the glove box. I utilise the slot located directly above the screen. The system is cumbersome; if utilised frequently, I recommend replacing it with a more contemporary alternative. Utilise just the OEM disc; I believe the most recent disc is from 2019.

Are you seeking a dash cam powered by a rechargeable battery? Why not just get a wired version and have it installed by a professional? No wire will be visible, enhancing reliability.

I am experiencing same problems with my local dealer. Mazda corporate is ineffective, having initiated over five inquiries with corporate oversight. It has been unproductive when I informed Core that my local dealer is unable to resolve the issues with my vehicle. They suggested that you take it to another dealer for further examination.

😊😇😊

It seems to be a malfunctioning M.A.F, since I had a similar issue with my M111, which I used and maintained for twelve years.

Their replies are also prompt.

Prominent "parts in motion" user here as well!

The micro switch will likely be included with the catch. It may be difficult to identify, but observe for the slender cable connected to it.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/select?vin=j816613#google_vignette

Is it emitting light? You may connect the terminals directly and eliminate the switch. Examine Realoen for the component number, then do a Google search; you may locate the switch in that manner.

The issue is that the car's paint is 31 years old and has deteriorated over time. Consequently, any seller of the purportedly accurate paint in a spray can will always be somewhat inaccurate. It is essential to locate a local supplier or mixer capable of use electronic technology to accurately assess the panels on the vehicle, ensuring a precise match that incorporates the nuances of old shading.

I contacted roadside help, and they will get the vehicle on Monday and tow it to the dealership.

It is not the gas cap.

I have not yet needed to refuel it. Nonetheless, I shall examine it when I get home. My wife had experienced problems due to a loose gasoline cap in her Mercedes-Benz.

Unfortunately, it seems that fortune has not favored me. This morning, I traveled around three miles when I saw that the check engine light was on. I returned home and used the Land Rover Remote app under the Health section to do an investigation. The engine displayed the accompanying information: Engine Failure Engine Malfunction Malfunction of the engine management system. Should the bulb illuminate when the engine is operational, an emissions-related malfunction exists. The car is operable but may engage limp-home mode, resulting in diminished performance. Obtain expert help at the earliest opportunity. A misfire has been identified if the light illuminated when the engine is operational. Decrease your velocity and promptly get professional aid. Has anybody seen this before, and if so, what was the resolution? This is a P550e with 468 miles recorded. It is particularly inconvenient as I am two hours distant from the closest dealership. I am quite apprehensive about doing the journey that far, particularly if it were to enter limp-home mode.

Can a hydraulic hose specialist fabricate any of them? An entity akin to Pirtek

I specifically deactivated driver personalisation for that reason. Enter and proceed.

Not an unfavourable proposition... However, even if it identifies me, there are instances when the steering wheel fails to complete its adjustment. Extremely erratic in my experience.

I have entirely abandoned the Driver Personalisation. It recognises me approximately 25% of the time. If I initiate the car before it identifies me, I must always select my name; otherwise, it defaults to guest. I will revert to utilising the settings buttons located on the left side of the steering wheel.

Conduct a search here for a six-month oil change, I believe it is. An inexpensive oil suction pump from Aldi and some fresh oil, or alternatively, if you were at a main dealership, the cost would be £450, please, sir. I have located it for you.

I have finally relinquished the reservoir. It was intricate but not as difficult as it appeared. Rather than connecting the tubes for a temporary solution, why not seal both ends? I lack a connecting metal component and am considering temporarily obstructing both ends. It is my understanding that not all E250 models include this feature, hence obstructing this coolant flow channel does not appear to be disastrous. I acknowledge it is a makeshift solution, although I do not believe it is excessively flawed.

Upon inspection, I have observed on the passenger side (UK) that there is a lever located behind the strut, which appears to be a ride height adjustment lever with a spherical end. However, it is not affixed to anything. I assume that a connector at the end has been lost for quite some time, as evidenced by the accumulation of debris. The lever was fully elevated, and I cannot ascertain its significance. The lever ride height sensor indicates that the vehicle is operating at a significantly low elevation, which appears to be accurate. Does the lever being fully elevated and rigid activate the compressor? Please inform me if it is inappropriate to alter the direction of this discussion in this post.

That is excellent; thank you for that. I have removed the inner wheel protection, and indeed, there is a white cover with two metal L-shaped tubes attached, connected to narrow hoses. Not the ones connected to the pumps, although those are present as well. I observed US vids on the E350, which displayed the complete tube system, including the two metal L tubes extending into the white cap. I am quite convinced that it is that. The fluid in the windscreen reservoir is clearly coolant. I am attempting to determine how to gain access to them currently and whether I can achieve this from behind the headlight unit, provided I can remove it. One is easily accessible on the wheel side of the reservoir, while the other is concealed behind the bumper. I am attempting to determine if I can access the headlamp without removing the entire reservoir and disconnecting all the grommets and pump connections; but, I fear I will ultimately have to do so regardless.