KOOLCAR

Greetings to everybody, I just acquired a facelifted C180 estate from the 2013 model year at a favorable price. I will upload some photographs, intending to do many subtle enhancements, including a reversing camera and headlight upgrade, among others. The low price is attributed to the activation of the ABS and traction control warning lights. I inspected the vehicle before to purchase and detected a code indicating implausible data for the front left wheel speed. I have brought the vehicle home, and after a little period of driving, it became undriveable due to the rear brakes seizing at any acceleration. Currently, upon scanning, it displays codes for both front wheel velocities. I disconnected one of the sensors, erased the codes, and the vehicle operated normally; nevertheless, it still retained several codes. I then exchanged both front sensors from left to right and vice versa. The sensors are authentic MB and seem to be in excellent shape, with no damage to the wire or connection. Upon clearing the codes and starting the vehicle, all warning lights stay out until the car is driven. Upon driving, I get error messages for both front wheel speeds, and the vehicle engages the back brakes. Upon clearing the codes, starting the vehicle, and deactivating the ESP via the car's settings, the warning lights illuminate; nonetheless, the vehicle operates normally. Upon examining the wheel speed readings using a diagnostic tool, the front wheels are displaying a value of 0. Should I take any other actions, or do you concur that the ABS rings have been compromised, necessitating the procurement of two wheel bearing kits that include the ABS rings? Or am I entirely mistaken, and a more severe issue may be the cause? All opinions are appreciated. I prefer to accurately analyze the issue instead than indiscriminately replacing components, since everything seems to be in its original condition.

Redex Forte BK44 All is well. Alternatively, many tankfuls of premium gasoline (BP Ultimate, Shell V-Power, Esso Supreme, etc.) would suffice, since premium fuels include superior detergents compared to other fuels.

Thank you for your reply; I will get the VIN from the vendor.

Subsequent 350d models are equipped with the same 2.9 inline six-cylinder engine as the 400d, although with varying performance specifications. I am considering vehicles from the years 2017 to 2020. I apologize for any lack of clarity.

Hello, how can I distinguish a CLS 350d from a CLS 400d? I am seeking a pre-owned model, and it seems that some 350Ds are misrepresented as 400Ds.

The plug-in hybrid electric vehicles seem to exhibit significantly greater reliability. The majority of battery faults observed are to the turbo variants.

An AGM will possess a vent, but not immediately apparent, as it serves as a vent for a safety valve. In the absence of a vent, there exists a possible explosive hazard due to excessive overcharging, which may lead to gas accumulation and pressurisation within the battery. AGMs are Valve Regulated Lead Acid (VRLA) batteries that operate at a modest pressure above ambient levels during charging to facilitate the recombination of vapours into liquid when gassing occurs. They are occasionally referred to as sealed batteries, but this designation applies solely during standard operation. Excessive overcharging will result in surpassing the safety valve pressure, leading to venting and electrolyte loss. The vent may not be directed away from the battery, nevertheless it is preferable to the battery exploding.

The AGM mode does not cause any detriment, although it charges an AGM battery more completely, reaching 14.8 volts compared to the standard mode's 14.5 volts. Both modes operate at an identical voltage of 13.8. Although the battery may not be an AGM, brief usage of a few hours in AGM mode would not damage it; nonetheless, I would advise against prolonged use of a regular battery in that mode, since it may fail to attain the float state. The critical depletion of the battery is a significant worry, since it will adversely affect its potential lifespan. A seldom-utilized vehicle requires a regular charge every one to two weeks.

You may need to upload the video to YouTube and thereafter provide the URL here.

If I were to do this task, I should execute it correctly. The headlights on the ML exhibit some cloudiness, therefore serving as a preliminary evaluation of the operation.

Does it also seal the plastic to mitigate UV degradation post-usage?

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I am preparing to sell the CLK convertible, and the headlight covers need refurbishment to eliminate the clouding prior to the sale. I am apprehensive about using a power tool due to the potential for poor execution; but, I found the manual method of sanding with increasingly finer sandpaper and T-cut to be rather laborious on my previous attempt. While searching for a kit for the task on eBay, I discovered this: We apologise for the disruption... I believe that a small sander/polisher pad attached to a cordless drill would be enough, since I could precisely regulate the drill's speed. I am quite apprehensive about achieving a uniform application of sealer thereafter. I also discovered this: We apologise for the disruption... I have never encountered something like. No use instructions are provided; nonetheless, it is evidently a disposable item from ShenZhen intended for sealer application. Is it potentially ineffective? Has anybody used a similar device? Is it satisfactory?

The VIN is also located on the V5 registration paperwork for your convenience, as well as at the base of the windscreen on the vehicle's body.

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https://partsouq.com/

Enter your VIN here to get the OEM numbers and proceed accordingly: https://partsouq.com/. Although the site is closed, the catalogue remains functional, likely inside the chassis area, as is the case with mine. Additionally, explore Car Parts at competitive prices, reputable brands, and complimentary delivery; they have shown to be very beneficial based on my experience.

The purchaser need to do an HPI check. If the 'buyer' supplied you with a link, this seems to be a prevalent phishing scam. The 'buyer' requests that you do an HPI check using the given link, which directs you to a fraudulent HPI check website that illicitly captures your credit card and personal information upon entry. When doing an HPI check, employ a reliable checker of your choice. Avoid using links supplied by prospective buyers, since they are likely to be fraudulent.

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That may be the source of your issue. BMW vehicles are particular, need authentic components for sensors.

Which make did you acquire? A genuine component is required.

Attempt a different cam sensor. If feasible, attempt to use one from a functioning vehicle.

The day before a holiday, I guess you were rather popular. I own an endoscope; nevertheless, it operates using a laptop, however a fresh model may be used more often. I own another item that may elicit amusement; it resembles a pen and is designed for ear wax removal. However, when the rubber tip is removed, it proves to be very useful for finding the hand brake adjustment. Additionally, for a close-up image of a component number, you use an application on your phone to capture a photograph.

You have incurred a financial loss for me, amusingly. I am uncertain of its intended application, but I am compelled to purchase any form of tool or kit.