KOOLCAR

The auxiliary battery was replaced two years ago with a new one from Mercedes.

Greetings everyone, I possess a 2003 E320 CDI W211, and I am experiencing the following problems: Initial instance, battery depletion during the nite When the ignition is activated, a particular light illuminates regardless of the light switch's setting; subsequently, if I switch the light control to auto or on, the driver's side remains illuminated while all other lights flicker, including the interior dome lights, footwell lights, and steering wheel control lights, which is quite bothersome. I continually experience the battery convenience features being disabled, only to revert to enabled intermittently. The blower activates and deactivates in sync with the battery convenience alert. The parking sensors are malfunctioning. The rear windscreen wiper is inoperative. When I press the button to access the area of the CD changer, it fails to open; I suspect I do not possess a CD changer, yet the door remains unresponsive. My radio was nonfunctional until I performed a fibre optic bypass on the module in the trunk; it now operates perfectly. No indication of a red battery light or any alerts! The crimson battery indicator illuminated briefly while I had the heater at maximum, wipers activated, radio playing, and lights engaged. New primary battery with charging at 13.8/14 volts during operation. Could you provide any suggestions? I appreciate it.

I comprehend that this is accurate. It has the capability to LOCK autonomously when you depart, yet it cannot UNLOCK upon your return without utilising the keyfob or making contact with the door handle, as Etex clarifies.

My door was severely dented, but the mot assured me that it would not fail as long as it could be opened and shut correctly.

It seems like you've been actively investigating the no-comms issue. I saw that you discovered some questionable splices beneath the glovebox; would it be possible for you to provide a picture of them? It could be helpful for someone here to see what you're facing in order to understand what's happening.

Same as #2 - 20,000 miles or two years, whichever is greater. Getting that in writing from Kia is the only surefire way. You make a financial contribution, etc.

Dash board data are only meant to be used as a guide; in order to acquire exact figures, one must calculate mpg fill up to fill up.

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You did request ways to reverse it, so I guess that counts as my defence 😁

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=breaker bar&campid=5338181132&customid=2518X1570512Xa505e27ae6273a2930a100fc596de135&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&subId2=15&toolid=10001

Could you perhaps unscrew the nut by placing a breaker bar end on the floor, fitting a socket into the nut and then quickly turning the engine over?

Behold, the essence. What I mean is that changing the suspension might be incredibly risky and expensive with little noticeable benefit. A little adjustment to the wheels might be done for next to nothing and with little actual danger.

https://www.shiply.com/

On many occasions, the sale of ridiculously large wheels and tires has resulted in substantial savings compared to the cost of shipping them. However, before purchasing, be sure to inspect the tread depth and date stamp of the tires. Changing the entire suspension system is a waste of time, particularly on older vehicles.

Much obliged.🫠

Hello everyone, I am in the market for an EGR deletion kit for my 2010 320d touring. Has anybody else done this? If so, could you kindly share a link with me? Thank you ahead of time

Unfortunately, that is only one of many uses for the dismal code.

Definitely, the transmission won't stay sealed forever. The Mercedes manual specifies how often you should change the filter and fluid. Even if these have evolved, they are still necessary.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162766874158?epid=10041420407&itmmeta=01HXPKGQYEAZA0GA5XBFTPYZ0K&hash=item25e5a9662e:g:vtIAAOSwFo5lnmg~&itmprp=enc:AQAJAAAA4JyzMcGz0mC8srrmQHZBhtgloo2WNacePHV2HFcJnHvOauz6v7LqYXu9UfBqKxVZlRaW1bd/tXpjJf0zHxRY10+0noC7S1d1UA9ZgeYUy+uyN/yfCQ7dIaaGo/eHK0l2wotAMjvbxMijwlwLIkQUAtpqE8+gaEjSR3HdblwauZx3/1vcfJmogRGfdLh7LPwKVHQer7GcCpPmJ9URFyjkm2Mho7/w+5GbxEq5K4En/SrnPMfdWpOUrG4mxl5EYjQVy5Md5Vy9wkWFskPGh8rYfXtELvj27EVpbQkUy+/XM/5e|tkp:BFBMrP_C0-1j&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338181125&toolid=10001&customid=2518X1570512X44f1adde54fadc3ac272c30af9910e4d&subId2=15

Would this be the one?

A fluid checker is available on the Opie Oils website. It's called CHF11s or something similar, and MB Parts will sell you a litre of it.

It seems like a good time to get in touch with the service department and request an examination for the used car. It would have been ideal to purchase it before the sale, but there was a wait, as you mentioned. Additionally, they can look up the vehicle identification number and inform you of any other issues that may require attention. Other TSBs may also be applicable, in addition to recalls. Do it now before the warranty expires for the best possible outcome.

Your speedo will likely simply become more accurate as a result; they are all factory-read. More importantly, while the vehicle is in full lock, I would be concerned about the clearance of the front tire arch liners.

The problem could be due to a low battery voltage, according to what I read online.