migueldosantos77

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Thank you for your assistance; I will arrange for the Turbo seals, and I hope that resolves the issue.

Thank you. I was informed that if it were the turbo seals, it would emit smoke continuously. It may operate normally for many days at optimal conditions, but then malfunction in congested traffic. I have now verified my oil level, and it is barely half full, therefore you are correct. It is using oil rather than gasoline, which eliminates the possibility of injector issues.

Removed the pipe; there was some suction, but it was not obstructed.

Transitions from this to clarity and then ceases.

I own a 2015 BMW 318d that operates well, with no warning lights or power loss. However, while idling in traffic, it emits substantial smoke from the exhaust, under the hood, and sometimes through the vents. It emits an odor reminiscent to burning oil or petroleum. It is white or gray. It is so severe that visibility behind is obstructed. Subsequently, after about 15 minutes of driving, it resolves, followed by a period of inactivity lasting several days. Occurs only when idling amid traffic congestion. Tasks I have completed but remain unresolved: EGR valve. Comprehensive service PCV measurement DPF cleaning DPF fuel cleaning agent

Could you provide the 2013 map? Kesinlikle gereksinimim var.

Consult Partsouq for schematics and part numbers; your VIN will be required.

Commence by cleaning the connections; using electrical cleaner or, at a minimum, disconnect and reattach them to see whether it resolves the issue.

https://www.bloomberg.com/news/features/2022-12-12/bmw-s-discontinued-i3-is-already-an-ev-cult-classic

A size 42.2 will be ideal for you; express your gratitude later.

I typically use the app to get comprehensive service records, which I may or may not receive from the dealer. Moreover, the application will likely be advantageous in demonstrating to prospective buyers that I possess a comprehensive service history, eliminating the need to carry several printouts. I had a problem with the app, but Mazda Croatia swiftly rectified it; the dealer was unable to assist.

Halfrawds may be a viable solution; but, I will likely need to locate a flat area, get some equipment, and do the task myself. I installed two halogen bulbs in what I assumed were running lights, but I have been informed that they are really H7 HID lamps

I have had the vehicle for 12 years and have never replaced any front lights, so I assumed they were conventional H7 bulbs; however, the mechanic advised me otherwise. Had I had the space to do the task, I would have addressed it personally and been aware of its contents. Each time I attempt to purchase from Halfords, Euro Car Parts, or bulb specialists, it is always the H7 that frustrates me. How can something so simple be so intricate?

2007 E92 335i Could someone provide explanation about headlamp bulbs? I have now spent a considerable sum on H7 bulbs, as shown by realoem, in addition to other bulb sources. Visited to install the lights in the engine bay compartments, only to discover H8 bulbs. Acquired them and successfully installed them in the engine bay. I requested a local mechanic to install the H8 bulbs and front spotlights, presumed to be H8, while new tires were being installed. I was told that the headlights are H7 HID and the spotlights are H11. Nothing seemed to align with expectations, leaving me perplexed. I am hesitant to make more purchases of erroneous bulbs. Could someone kindly provide guidance on which bulbs to acquire? I apologise for my verbosity.

Thank you, everyone. I have a strong preference for Autoglym goods and am considering purchasing a kit. I also feel that water poses a significant threat to these fabric shirts. I own a vehicle cover that is almost waterproof but gets moist during rainfall. If water poses a significant issue, I will likely seek an additional plastic sheet to protect the roof prior to applying the car cover.

I have acquired my first soft top, which operates manually for opening and closing. I have seen several posters seeking assistance with their damaged soft tops, as well as many that are significantly faded. Mine is in immaculate condition for its age; it will mostly be outside but sheltered beneath a cover. What recommendations exist to maintain this in optimal condition? Is maintaining it in a folded position (open) optimal, provided it is stored in a garage? Or maintaining it in an extended (closed) position. Should I refrain from exposure to rain?

If you cannot tolerate it (I have a strong aversion to anything that fails to function as intended), then a session with Star/Xentry is the appropriate course of action.

The process does not directly alter the output from the ECU. Instead, it manipulates the input parameters in order to influence the resulting output. A remap not only does the task mentioned, but also accurately adjusts parameters instead of manipulating them. If Jason has the ability to successfully map an M2, I am quite certain, with a 99% certainty, that he would be able to map your 320i as well. Furthermore, it is highly unlikely that he would need to ship the ECU overseas in order to unlock it.

Indeed, they manipulate the Electronic Control Unit (ECU) by altering the data obtained from the sensors. It may be described as a resistor contained inside a box. An optimal solution is to do a remap, since the electronic control unit (ECU) is currently restricted, but skilled mappers have the ability to unlock it.

Surging occurs while decelerating to a halt. With the foot on the brake, the automobile abruptly accelerates forward approximately 10 feet before coming to a complete stop, requiring the driver to forcefully use the brakes. The situation was rather unsettling, and the reaction I received was exactly what I anticipated. Although it is not a problem, we are aware that it is really a problem. Please go.

The issue has been resolved. The recall now establishes a maximum charge restriction of 50 percent for both AC charging and charging while driving. I am unable to comprehend the reason for the erratic behaviour of the charging process when it reached 50 percent instead of just ceasing to charge. The image shown above shows that the charging progress reached 61 percent.

Yesterday, I brought my CX90 in for a recall, its first oil change, and a couple of Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs). I also informed the service representative that the vehicle sometimes experiences surges while coming to a halt. They completed the simple tasks and, unsurprisingly, claimed that they did not see any problem with the sudden increase and provided me with an explanation that it was connected to the process of recharging when the battery was completely drained. He verified this by completely depleting the battery, after which he informed me that they had recharged it to 50 percent and it was prepared for me to collect. After driving 40 miles to the dealer and back home, the battery of my vehicle was completely depleted. I immediately connected it to a power source and around one hour later, I received a notification indicating that the car had been fully charged. Subsequently, the car remained in a charging state until it reached full capacity. My wife was ready to go for the store, so I didn't pay much attention to it at the time. However, I did see that the battery charge level was only at 50 percent or 13 miles State of Charge (SOC). Upon returning home, she proceeded to recharge her device. However, she had the same issue where the device reached a 50 percent charge and continued to charge again. When I check my Emporia app, I see a recurring pattern where the amperage drops to zero, then rises to 30 amps almost every minute after the battery reaches 50 percent charge. My EV6 is now charging without any problems. The issue first arose after the automobile was sent to the shop. It seemed peculiar that I received charging warnings at 7:00 this morning while the car was being serviced, and this continued for around 10 minutes. Has anybody else seen or experienced this issue? Did they deplete half of my battery?

The smaller units are incapable of turning over a R8, or at least my unit was unable to do so, while being advertised as suitable for engines up to 6 litres in size.

I was unaware that the IQ is regulated depending on the MAF or MAP. I had previously believed that IQ control was independent of the air sensors, which I find peculiar. However, there are no existing maps that establish a direct correlation between IQ and MAP or MAF, is there? Do I need to physically alter the signal from the sensors, if I have understood correctly? Is there not a cleaner method to do this task?