QuirkyPixel

There is nothing amiss with that. Many contemporary vehicles will not initiate unless the brake pedal is engaged. I possess two contemporary compact tractors, both equipped with hydraulic transmissions, akin to automatic systems. They possess several safety features related to engine ignition, involving foot brake(s). Occupancy of the driver's seat Transmission range selector Selection of PTO Drive Power Take-Off (PTO) clutch Neither party seems concerned about the parking brake, however 🙂 One of these requires the gearbox to be in neutral for ignition, regardless of the foot brake status. Regrettably, the range selection lacks synchronisation, necessitating minor adjustments of the tractor using the brake to go between High, Medium, Low, and Neutral gears. Failing to pick neutral prior to shutting off the engine may result in an inability to shift into neutral for subsequent restarts. The other vehicle is equipped with a synchroniser on the selector, but it does not require being in neutral to initiate: :doh: However, the brake must be engaged.

Contemporary vehicles, like many modern Mercedes, automatically activate the parking brake, limiting user discretion. However, with older models (e.g., our Vito and SL), I seldom engage the parking brake as they are typically parked on level terrain.

Valid observations. Concerning the pawl, several years ago, my former neighbour collided with our stationary Vito, which was not engaged in the parking brake, with sufficient force to displace it significantly. I anticipated the pawl to be compromised, but it was intact. He was inebriated; he ultimately parked his vehicle against the front of their residence.

I attempted to start my 2011 E91 320d N47 at my mother-in-law's residence last night. The dashboard lights were functional; however, when pressing the start button, there was no response. I did not see any clicking sound, just weak, typical sounds emanating from behind the dashboard, but nothing more occurred. She drove home in her Vauxhall Agila. Returning this morning with the spare key, the code reader, and other tools. It is at this moment that one reflects on the preceding 2 to 3 weeks, recalling that on two occasions the device failed to activate. Initially, it was attributed to insufficient key insertion, since reinserting the key resulted in successful ignition. However, this time, it did not start at all. The battery is functioning properly; nevertheless, I will inspect the positive lines at their departure from the boot and ensure the battery box is dry, as well as scan for diagnostic codes. Is there anything further I should attempt while I am there before I provide the codes? Greetings, team!

It is becoming prevalent as a fraudulent scheme. The crooks likely do this several times daily.

It is necessary to retrieve problem codes using the diagnostic equipment. Common issues include wear in valve bodies and dual clutch units. Given the age of the vehicle, you should have completed three gearbox oil maintenance by now.

What is wrong with yours?

Fifteen may be quite excessive unless you were in the luxury sector and top grade. None of my previous vehicles have memory outside mirrors.

Would echo the return of RAC. However, if possible, please visit your dealer. To confirm that RAC did not create an issue during the battery replacement.

To verify: All standard sources indicate ZERO STOCK.

$41.08 NOTE: THE STOCK IS NIL. pristine. You must purchase used items from salvage yards.

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External Handle Code #68704 Mitsubishi Part Number MR599767

Tailgate Door Panel and Glass: https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine/unit?c=MMC202403&ssd=%24*KwF7T157GCQ2BQ4qLQtffSM3FxAOf3B9fG5Bcjo8DxsHAwECR1B8Fjg8OAkfBhdRTEZ7cgoADQ0OG19MfCoINGw9anVvSjwuayttdHo1MThQZSA9anVsE2pjb3NwIHNqDBsEewR4IC9Ga2RtLSBqdX48PHdrcm16emV7fCA8LmshbXRreXt-Py82ehd7f3kMf30gLTEdajIwPy0nDWs8YWtyb2wKHQJ-WysyeAxtYmlqIm8qPiANf34Za2Rvb3NyIHNobQIbHQoBJFMgNAAAAAAe99tT%24&vid=0&cid=3&uid=166909&q=

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Reference for anatomical components for your model

Best of luck

Purchasing a full secondhand rear hub/shaft/hub carrier likely eliminates the need of installing a new bearing. They have considerable durability. Regardless, enjoy the drama. Winter has arrived!

The primary challenge will be extracting the driveshaft. E90s are notorious for rusting firmly onto the drive flange, provided the large nut has not corroded excessively. They are challenging, and by the time you purchase a quality puller kit, it may be more practical to have a garage do the task. The first step is to release the driveshaft nut and see whether the shaft will cooperate.

Indeed, but also monitor for burning sensations.

I would first examine the LCM connections and wiring.

The E39 has a light control module (LCM). I recommend obtaining BMW diagnostics to check for error codes. If necessary, a functional used module will be needed, which must also be programmed to the vehicle.

Congratulations on the new vehicle!

"Cover the lights with tape." As Johnny said, it may only be the module.

Could you perhaps provide some clarification on the term "back plates"? Are you referring to the brake pads, or is there another aspect that I am overlooking? I am planning to replace the retaining pins and metal braked/spring mechanism, since the current pins, which are somewhat rusted, are impeding the free movement of the brake pads. I have reached the conclusion that the brake judder disappears in the cooler mornings but reappears when it becomes warmer, indicating that the issue cannot be attributed to the brake discs. This leads me to believe that the pins may be smaller in size when it is cold, allowing for better movement of the brake pads. If it proves ineffective, then it would have been a mere expenditure of €15.