Starcar2022

I posted a video of Legitstreetcars; you should watch it. You can see the oil can that Alex uses.

https://www.bing.com/videos/riverview/relatedvideo?q=legitstreetcars+ABC+mercedes+benz.&mid=3F41AF2B01B80C64074F3F41AF2B01B80C64074F&FORM=VIRE

An ex-MB technician named Alex from legitstreetcars.com is currently tackling a V12. You may find his work on the ABC system and how to remove and strip down an engine to replace a £1 'o' ring in his content. Although you can jump to the parts concerning ABC, it is worth watching all of his films that deal with the CLK. Not everyone is brave enough to deal with issues with earlier ABC systems. My wish is that you uncover the truth.

Prior to purchasing the vehicle would have been the ideal time to accomplish this. Expensive European vehicles often undergo what is known as a Pre-Purchase Inspection. Having the software updated, recalls and service bulletins executed, oil changed, etc., might be arranged at this stage by contacting a Mazda dealer. They should be able to tell you whether the vehicle has been recalled or serviced in accordance with service bulletins, though I'm not sure if they can provide you with any history on the vehicle.

Simply put, 51 psi is the maximum level that I am aware of. For the majority of my vehicles, I aim for a pressure of 40 psi, even if the tyre manufacturer recommends a maximum of 50 psi. Thank you for responding, though; it might be useful to others.

Put it in charge for a day and see its performance. 👍 The stop-start auxiliary capacitor pack can be in your possession as well. Behind the shifter

I recall this being a source of frustration during my experience. I believe I sufficiently depressed the knuckle for the strut to rest atop it, albeit at an incorrect angle for insertion into the hole, and subsequently employed a wooden piece with the jack beneath it to elevate the bottom section of the strut until alignment was achieved. Required several attempts and considerable exertion!

I appreciate the information; thank you for sharing.

Valve stem oil seals, as a general principle.However, verify the level of the brake fluid reservoir. Conduct a cylinder pressure test; it will determine whether the issue lies with the rings. However, given your low mileage, it is unlikely.

Similar like you, I will not alter the original Rocket until it fails me. I will acquire a Bosch or Yuasa battery, as these are the recommended replacements from other users.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/GREPRO-10000mAh-Vehicles-motorcycle-Flashlight/dp/B0BBV7KC7Z?_encoding=UTF8&tag=kiaownersclub-sl-21

Instead of visiting the Kia dealership. Simply purchase a battery online and install it yourself. Possessing a battery booster will enable you to proceed if the battery becomes depleted. For instance, Aldi and Lidl also offer them at different intervals.

My vehicle is a Sport model, equipped from the factory with AMG wheels, mats, bumpers, and sills; however, it is not an AMG. Only vehicles designated with two-digit identifiers, such as C63, E63, C43, and A45, should bear the AMG badge. No AMG badge should be present on three-digit models like E350, ML270, or C250; if they do, they are not factory-issued.

It is an AMG line, nothing remarkable, my friend.

It is necessary to read the fault codes and inspect the boost pipes for any splits.

The hue will assist, but they do not generate substantial wealth. My wife's vehicle, identical in engine specifications, had 75,000 miles and a T plate with two-tone leather upholstery, and was in near-mint condition; yet, we received a little amount for it. Vehicles of that age and newer are available for far less than £2500. Currently, there are two yellow vehicles available on AT priced at £1500 and £2295. Although they likely have more mileage than yours, they are also newer, providing a comparative reference.

😶‍🌫️😶‍🌫️😶‍🌫️

Regrettably, the authentic MB sensors (manufactured by ATE) sometimes malfunction after 30,000 to 40,000 miles. Although some endure for a longer duration...

I would replace both front wheel sensors due to their propensity to fail; even if this is not the present problem, you will have two fresh sensors that will last for an additional 30,000 miles. After eliminating the wheel sensors, it is necessary to investigate the ABS module and ESP ECU farther up the hierarchy.

Mine experienced this as I was returning from my holiday in Sorrento... Perform a system reboot by using the little aperture located under the knob; use a pen or a similar object, as this resolved my issue.

Indeed, the few excursions to the fuel station are advantageous. The rationale for my purchase. However, I want to seek a resolution for this issue at some point in the future.

Indeed, I saw it previously. However, I concur with others who question the rationale of an engineer who builds a transmission that produces a crunching sound and deems it "normal." No information is available to me. Who would purchase this from me if they experienced that noise during a test drive and I informed them it was normal? I doubt anybody would. Continuing to depend on corporate Mazda to provide a solution for everyone.

Has anybody with this problem ever resolved it? I believed one member had a new transmission installed. Curious whether it resolved the issue. My vehicle is a 2024 model; does anybody with a 2025 model have the same issue? I am enduring it, although I want its cessation. I have received all the information about the trans, etc., however it seems to be deteriorating somewhat. I doubt I could sell it in this condition; it seems the transmission is likely to fail soon. Kindly share if someone has successfully resolved the transmission "crunch."

In Jersey, it is rather normal for us to have delays; we purchased a tabletop dishwasher that did not come as scheduled, prompting us to inform Amazon, who issued a £200 refund. However, the item came a week later. We also attempted to make a payment, but as you said, they advised against it. We will delay our remarks on any absence to avoid this rather unethical circumstance.

When solely utilising gasoline, the inline six is a superior hybrid option. Enhanced reliability, improved smoothness, and superior fuel efficiency when utilising petrol exclusively. Should you opt for consistent charging, the PHEV merits consideration. I also observe that PHEV performance is superior when the battery is not exhausted. It is my belief that Mazda has largely addressed the bricking issues through their software updates. My sole concern at present is the potential failure of the 12v battery, a common problem among numerous electric vehicles.