Black_raven

Additionally, I normally keep this high beam setting disabled where I live because it blinds individuals strolling down the road.

Every time I go to a certain place, my high lights go out and blind everybody else on the road, even if there isn't a car just ahead of me. Having learned this, the next time I drive through that area, I will off the automatic high beam feature. In my opinion, the radar and/or camera are being obscured because the area is located near the valley floor, where it flattens out. Thus, it is undeniably imperfect. The majority of the time, nevertheless, it serves its intended purpose. Having the high lights turned on is unnecessary when you're in a densely populated region. You can't expect to outdrive low-beam headlights unless you're travelling at highway speeds.

There isn't much, but it's a decent, dependable (albeit somewhat noisy) engine 🤐

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Block-Tester-Bt-500-Combustion-Leak/dp/B06VVBSFTF/

Low compression in two neighboring cylinders is a telltale sign of a blown head gasket, which is typically located at the narrowest point and can be detected using a compression test. When the engine is turned off, a pressure gauge attached to the cooling system will reveal whether or not the system keeps the pressure. In the event that it doesn't, a leak may be present, potentially affecting the cylinder head. To gauge the internal pressure, squeeze the top hose of the radiator. To release the pressure, take the radiator cap off (with the engine turned off), replace it, start the engine, and rev it up. The head gasket has blown if the pressure is built up too rapidly; normally, it should do so gently as the engine warms up. The gadget can detect exhaust gases in the cooling system if you bring the vehicle to a MOT testing site and request that an exhaust gas analyzer be lowered into the expansion bottle, but above the coolant level.

The person who posted the question clearly does not appear to have much expertise car-spanking, but I love it when they complete a major task like this. So, nicely done!

Great work and congratulations!

Similar to DB's post up there, I checked mine out this morning and found that it is nothing more than an open cutout:wallbash: nothing fitted.

Wow, the blue one from Pompey was really good! Can you think of a USB port on the armrest that might work? My best guess is that you've already searched the most obvious spot—the glove box. With the 'Media Interface' on my 2012 E350, I could play music from my iPod classic via Comand. You may find it in my E400 as well.

😁

MyCarsoft is capable of handling that.

Would you like to hire a mobile DPF guy to come to your house or place of business, or do you intend to perform it yourself? Even though I don't know how much they cost, I have seen several of them on YouTube. I am genuinely interested in knowing how often DIY projects succeed compared to those that are handled by professionals.

Regrettably, they bear the blame! Have the Insurance Ombudsman look into it!

Were you referring to the response you got from a certified insurance repair shop? Notify the insurance carrier if the fault was not there before.

As bad as it is in places you can see, it might be much worse in places you can't. Given the amount of trouble it would cause to fix if necessary, I would personally pass on it.

Unfortunately, I did not have much time to investigate the problems today. I was given forty minutes. Very strangely, I spent the majority of that time attempting to identify continuity on K-CAN [Green and Orange Green twisted pairs], yet all of my attempts appeared to be open circuit. Finally, I went ahead and purchased a set of four things on eBay: CAS, DDE, Key, and Instruments. Expected arrival dates are Wednesday through Friday. I will attempt additional continuity checks when I have the time, but this week is really hectic. No visible indicators of damage were found when checking the CAS. I removed the screws from the DDE, but I was unable to remove the cover. Fearing harm, I replaced the screws. After cloning, it should function properly since DDE solely relies on the CAS for handshake and start enabling signals. I was wondering if anyone might suggest a cloning company.

Please tell me that the lock does not contain any coding information in the event that I decide to proceed with the CAS/DDE swap out/clone method. Thank you. Instead of changing the locks on the doors and glovebox, I could just use the manual blade key and insert it into the donor set's keychain.

I appreciate that, but for now it's more of a hit-and-miss than a strategy for success. After I found the K-CAN wiring diagrams, I was planning to inspect the bus to determine whether the CAS was causing it to be dragged down and, consequently, the communication codes. Whether the CAS could intervene with the DDE to halt the pressure buildup was something I pondered. Upon matching immobiliser codes, my understanding is that the CAS sends the start enable signal to the DDE; however, I am unsure of the symptoms. I was wondering if it would be best to simply get a full set of CAS, DDE, lock, and key in order to verify the fault has been resolved, before sending both modules for cloning, so that I can preserve the VIN, mileage, etc. Another option is to simply obtain the DDE and replicate it. Time is of the essence; I need the automobile by next week's end; hence, I may have to settle for purchasing the set and cloning it when I have more time. By the way, have you heard anything about the possibility of reducing the donor's mileage? Like I mentioned before, I'd like to maintain accurate mileage records, and I'm worried that I won't be able to adjust the settings from a higher-mileage vehicle to my lower-mileage one if I borrow a set.

I started this thread since the problem is driving me crazy; I had already contributed it to another one, but it's probably too long now. If I am unable to locate the problem tomorrow, I will have to arrange for the car to be repaired at a garage. While returning from Heathrow, the vehicle abruptly stopped responding (the "drive moderately" sign flashed on the dashboard) and would not turn over. I managed to get my car towed home, but they were unable to back into our driveway, leaving it parked on the street. Unfortunately, I do not have a secure method to get underneath it. In addition, it restricts my activities during rainstorms. Just before Christmas, I took my car in for the B+ and blower wire recalls. I had been putting them off because I didn't see any problems with the wiring and was afraid they could mess with anything and cause a problem. It looks like they have, but I still don't think that's the problem with my crank not starting. I've done my best to summarise everything that has transpired with the car since the beginning of December. Current Tasks 16th December: Vehicle brought to Marshall BMW for recall repairs (airbag, B+ cable, and blower cable rework). Returns a number of S-codes for use with the control unit, siren, electronic fuel pump, roof function center, CID, alarm, and electronic fuel pump. I still haven't found out what caused it. The codes that tend to appear most frequently are: There is no communication with the electronic fuel pump module (S 0098), the CAS (S 0074), and S 0114. No communication with the control unit, air conditioning, navigation system, or JBE (S0117, S0155, and S0212, respectively). On occasion, the option to remove codes becomes greyed out and cannot be chosen. Similarly, accessing the ECU functionalities is not always possible. 19th December: Undersealed rear subframe, front control arms/links/wishbones, gearbox fluid and brake fluid were replaced. Noticed an oil leak on the cover of the rocker. January 18th: Installed new copper washers, cleaned injector seats, and replaced rocker cover and gaskets. On February 5th, while driving home from Heathrow Airport, my car broke down about 5 miles from my house. The Check Engine warning light momentarily came on before the car shut down, and now it won't turn over, even though it cranks normally. Except for the codes that are present after recall, no other codes are used. Although the pre-supply pressure rises to 3.9 bar, the main rail pressure remains at 10 bar. Over the rocker cover, sooting was noticed. It was found that the hose connecting the exhaust back pressure sensor was not properly reinstalled following the change of the rocker cover. Working without producing any output. Viewed codes again following cranking, and 04B90 was detected. The lift pump, HP fuel pump, metering valve, pressure accumulator, rail pressure sensor, and rail pressure relief valve were all replaced from February 12th to the 17th with used but billed as "working" equipment. Got the codes cleared and tried to access the fuel system bleed procedure, but couldn't get in touch with DDE. The option to do a fuel system bleed was unavailable when I finally gained entry to the DDE menu. The lift pump may be powered for two minutes using the spare battery. We saw and cleared multiple communications-related codes. Car continues to spin, but won't start. During continuous cranking, the rail pressure can spike to as high as 70 to 90 bar, which causes the engine to try to start but fail. While cranking, the central display may show many codes and messages, which could be caused by a depletion on the battery. After removing the DDE make contact relay, a fused jumper was inserted across terminals 2 to 6. It appears that accessing DDE communications is still not possible. Error code for DDE relay recorded. The car turns over, but it doesn't start since the rail pressure isn't there. There is no indication of injector leakage while cranking, according to the leak off check. While cranking, the rail return hose became twisted, yet the rail pressure remained unchanged. I turned it on after disconnecting the rail return hose. When cranking, fuel leaks out of the return hole of the pressure rail. Relay for making contact was replaced. The fuel bleed process cannot proceed because ISTA cannot communicate, although the DDE is now showing as green. Transferred HP line from HPFP to rail and kept an eye on flow rate as cranking was done. Looks like the flow won't be able to develop pressure and is moving slowly. february 20th and 21stSwapped the HP FP for a refurbished one. Examined the engine bay for any signs of fuel line leaks. The pump was powered for two minutes by a battery. I managed to complete the first part of the fuel system bleed procedure (pump operates for three minutes), but unfortunately, I was unable to proceed to the second part since the car refused to start. There have been no increases since pre-supply was at 4.1 bar and rail was at 10 bar. After re-cranking, the rail return line became clogged, but the rail pressure remained unchanged. Taken the DDE off and checked it for rust and water damage; everything seems OK. I measured the voltage drop across the splice in the B+ cable while cranking, and it was 0.01V. Checked at 60 ohms at the PT-CAN on the OBD (pins 6–14). Revise (to include): I swapped out the JBE to make sure the module isn't the source of the communications problems. Revoked the pressure rail regulator adjustments after an unsuccessful attempt to reset them, according to ISTA. During a test drive, the engine was turned on but the clutch was not depressed. The pump activated and the central display indicated a pump failure, even though the engine was still running. The driver maintained a moderate speed. The display notice was cleared, but the pump did not restart, even after cycling the ignition. Since there is still one component of the system that needs replacing, an EKPS is on its way to me.

There were instances where valves had to be replaced due to struts being jammed when the ABC-system was implemented. Mercedes came up with the "Rodeo test" after giving it some thought. Using Xentry, we subject the system to stress by jolting the vehicle and listening to its vibrations. problem codes. By evaluating the ABC system's capabilities, any malfunctions are exposed. Additionally, the rodeo test "lubricates" the struts and valves and removes any dirt from the oil system. Changing the ABC oil (and filter) at normal intervals is crucial. There was absolutely no interval mentioned on the M/Y2000, at least! In its original state, hydraulic oil is odourless, translucent, and verdant. The time for changing has come if the oil is cloudy, smells bad, and has a greyish hue. The filler cap is where you can find the filter. Upon completion, it turns white (or a pale green). The pulsation damper is likely to be worn out after around 10,000 kilometres. Testing it is a breeze. Turn the engine over while it is at a complete stop in neutral gear. To replace the pulsation damper, listen for a rumbling sound that goes away when the engine speed reaches around 1800 RPM. Making sure the ABC system is in good working order is crucial. Metal fragments might enter the system if the pump were to break due to contaminated oil. Fixing it will cost a big penny. Before anything else, make sure the oil is clean on any CL (or prospective purchase). Parking a vehicle that gradually lowers itself is OK, but only up to a certain point. I raised my CL, placed a bundle of wood blocks behind the service pads, and then dropped it to store it for the winter. Therefore, there was no strain on the struts and the tires did not become flat.

Actually, you won't be able to verify anything with a multimeter continuity test unless you happen to have one on hand. The only thing you can do is check the voltage at the jumper connection; if it drops while cranking, the problem is further back. Poor connection between the main power wire and the jump point/starter cable has caused the jump point termination to shatter in the past.

Since it drops to practically nothing while cranking under heavy load, there must be an issue with the main positive somewhere. Verify the location of the jumper wire where it ascends from the brake servo. Take off the scuttle trim piece. Was the area in the boot where the positive cable from the battery joins to the one that travels to the front of the car examined? It's possible that it's corroded.

There is either an issue with the earth or the positive connection between the battery and the jump point connector. Where did you ground the multimeter lead when measuring at the jump point?

I assume you mean the right side of the vehicle when you say "drivers side"?