diablos_carcv5

The headrest effectively secures the 60" towels by resting on their edge. At a length of 72 inches, the towel is draped over the headrest and secured by sliding the headrest downwards.

I use affordable cotton beach towels bought from Amazon or a nearby Ollie's establishment, storing them inside a compact bag. The dimensions of 30x60 are sufficient to adequately cover the seat body of my rx350, whilst the larger dimensions of 36x72 provide complete coverage, including the headrest. Simply place it in the washing machine after each usage.

The attachment point of the damper to the automobile body seems to be located near the lower end of the tube, but it is not entirely clear. One would anticipate the damper to possess connections at both the top and bottom, like a rear suspension damper. However, in this particular case, the damper is attached at the end of the tube where the rod extends and retracts, rather than at the top as could be presumed. What is the rationale behind this? It is conceivable that the whole damper system may spin in order to clear the path of the glove box when its lid is being closed. I attempted to capture an illustrative image, but, the resulting photograph just depicted the presence of a package of Werthers Originals.

Alright, Please attempt to complete as many items as possible from the checklist that I have provided, since they have significant importance. The engine compartment fusebox might be located in the vicinity between the engine coolant reservoir and the battery. Upon removing the cover, one will see a schematic diagram on the underside, which provides information on the fuse's layout, rating, purpose, placement, and the arrangement of relays. The fuse located closest to the engine, namely the 100Amp. (blue) fuse, is not designed for plug-in installation. Instead, it is secured in place by means of two bolts. Please review the text for coherence and logical flow. If the fuse has been blown, it is possible that the previous alternator caused the damage. It would be very beneficial if you could provide a comprehensive description of the specific "issue" encountered with the freshly replaced alternator. Please assess the continuity of all the fuses in the fusebox using a meter, rather than relying just on eye inspection. Kindly share your results on this topic.

Items to verify. 1. Verify the condition and tension of the alternator driving belt. Ensure that the battery post connections are free of dirt and debris and are in optimal condition. To start the process, it is recommended to first disconnect the negative terminal of the battery. Subsequently, proceed to loosen the primary chassis ground plate in close proximity to the wiper motor. Thoroughly cleanse the three bolts and the plate itself, ensuring optimal cleanliness. Finally, securely fasten the plate back into place. Following this, repeat the aforementioned steps for the main ground connection situated on the passenger side engine mount of the engine block. To begin, it is necessary to replace the negative terminal of the battery. Subsequently, it is advised to verify that the battery exhibits a voltage of at least 12 volts. It is important to note that if the battery voltage falls below about 11.5 volts, the vehicle may still start, but the excitation level will be insufficient for the alternator to initiate charging. In the event that the voltage is insufficient, it is recommended to either charge the battery or use booster cables to facilitate the starting of the vehicle. When the engine is operating at a high idle, it is important to verify that the voltage between the battery terminals falls within the range of 13 to 15 volts. If deemed acceptable, proceed to do a test drive of the vehicle in order to replenish the battery. The user's text does not contain any information to rewrite in an academic manner.Please return to this location and inform us of your discoveries.

https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/kn-vs-oem-filter.html I concur.

This is a fantastic discovery. Please keep me updated. Too bad (for me) they stop at vehicles from about 2010 at the earliest. If I didn't already have a 2011 W212, I would have bought a pack to store up on them at that price.

Hi All My 95, 323 had an issue, and I needed help. My dashboard displayed a Check Light, so I went online in search of information. learn deciphering the codes. I stumbled over this page. www.auto-diagnostic-codes.com Includes free access to detailed information on engine, ABS, automatic transmission, and airbag codes for vehicles manufactured in the United States, Europe, and Australia. include automobiles made in Japan and Korea. By following the on-screen prompts, I was able to get my engine's diagnostic trouble code, which I then entered into the system. The system displayed error 32, which referred to a high HO2S heater control circuit in bank 1 of sensor 1. After testing and ultimately replacing the sensor, the issue was resolved. I figured other people may benefit from this site, too.

During a recent business trip to California, I had the opportunity to wander around a dealer lot and peek inside one of these vehicles. Appears to be OK, albeit a little pricey. Quite a nice automobile.

Not sure about the B, but it doesn't seem like there should be water there; there appears to be a leak in the plastic scuttle; maybe a clogged drain? First, I'd have to look into it. I recommend using Dinitrol RC900 after a thorough cleaning of the rust that avoids hurting the paint. This just turns the rust black and seals it, and it dries clear. The environment might be concealed if desired.

If all they did was regas it, then surely they didn't undertake any unauthorized work.After most AC maintenance, I anticipate the system will need a regas. If that's all they did, the final tab couldn't have been that high, could it? I'm certain that if you go back and calmly make your case, you'll be able to resolve the situation with little hassle. Deleted because a speedier typist beat me to it!

For that last-minute shine, autosol is a lifesaver.

Have you thought about filing for divorce?😀

Yes they should be (and probably are ) aware of the Timing Chain Stretch issue. However as said earlier, it was never deemed to be a recall as such. Therefore notification of the requirement was never posted out to owners. It was a "Campaign" during which the timing chain was checked for stretch and a software modification was flashed to the ECU which activated the engine management light (EML) should the chain stretch beyond acceptable limits. It was a world wide event and every vehicle was supposedly checked the next time it was in a Mazda dealership. Are you the first and only owner or was the car second hand ? Maybe the previous owner (if there was one ) never took it to a Mazda dealership. Three things to consider here. Did your car ever go into a Mazda dealership for servicing at any time from about 2009 onwards ? I'm afraid I'm unable to give an exact date If the answer is yes, then it should have been checked and a record made of this fact If the above was actually done then Mazda UK should have a record of this which is linked to your VIN number I don't know where this assists you in your quest for recompense, but the dealership are most certainly trying to avoid telling you the truth.

Even though these are extensive, they may be useful to you. Please observe the dates of these posts and keep in mind that your vehicle was already three or four years old when this occurred. If Mazda is able to assist you with a goodwill gesture. I do not believe they will offer more than 25%. As stated previously, my first step would be to visit Mazda. Possibly, the expression "recall" is deceptive. In fact, it was referred to as a "campaign" to examine chain strain. Mazda never really acknowledged that a "recall" was necessary. Consequently, it is not noted on the VOSA recall website. Logge

You've demonstrated a classic instance of Timing Chain Stretch. Your Mazda dealer should be able to tell you if your vehicle has been inspected in accordance with the Timing Claim Recall, despite the fact that your vehicle is no longer under warranty. My first step would be to investigate further. If the answer is no, I would ask Mazda why and what can be done to remedy the situation. If so, the answer is significantly more costly. Due to the fact that you have received three estimates from three distinct individuals, the cost is likely to exceed £1000. Sorry

The very low mileage may be the reason the engine has to be de-coked. Only 2000 miles a year, or roughly 32 miles per week throughout a year, have been driven on average by the vehicle. When operated in this manner, the engine has never had a chance to fully warm up and burn off all the contaminants that contribute to the buildup of carbon. It is possible that it was only ever used as a shopping vehicle for extremely short trips. Engines must be used often to stay in top condition. The engines of automobiles that spend the most of their life on highways shouldn't ever need de-coking, in my opinion.

I had a car (not a Mini) that did this, and it was caused by the handbrake binding on one side and irregular tyre pressure. Worth a glance?

The venture version wasn't limited, but the Takuya seems to have been. However, based on how many are still on the road, there are just over 900 diesel ventures and 2.2k gas ventures ever recorded, making it a lot rarer than the Takuya. For comparison, there are currently 42,000 "limited editions" of the gas Corsa that have been registered. Nice car, and I like the colour red.

While my vehicle was being serviced at the dealership, I got to sit in a fully-optioned Gen 4. It was beautiful inside and out, especially for the class. Not that I've wanted to, but I haven't driven one either. While the second vehicle you have is attractive, I don't believe I could handle the stress of installing and removing a rear-facing car seat from it due to the awkward design of the roof and doors.

I thought it was usual practise for self-dimming to turn off when the mode was switched to reverse. When the rear window is still heavily tinted, it doesn't assist much. Over-the-shoulder looks are almost useless in low light due to the vehicle's tinted back windows and rising belt line. I've found that utilising mirrors and staring is sufficient for reversing in my Mazda 3, but that it all relies on the camera angle. The C3's door mirrors and camera are my go-to for rearward visibility since the mirror cuts off at shoulder level and at night, but the camera provides almost 180 degrees of vision all the way to the ground.

The Gen 4 is a wonderful looking vehicle with a lovely cabin for the money. When the first one was out, I sat in one at the dealer and it made my vehicle seem like it was from the 1980s. However, it seems to have been constructed with all the bells and whistles in mind. Because you had windows in the Gen 2, you don't need a back camera or a blind spot monitor, but as wonderful as the Gen 4 is, it was obviously created with visibility at the bottom of the priority list. While it's comforting to imagine that a good driver doesn't require these items, many current automobiles make being a decent driver difficult without blind spot monitoring and other features. Even on the C3, which is not as low-roofed as the Mazda 3 but does have kicked-up rear windows, a sloping roof, hefty C pillars, a tiny back window, and dark tinted rear glass, a reversing camera is a much better alternative than looking out. Yes, you still look over your shoulder, but your range of vision is almost nonexistent.

Those were the days... Citroen has one, and if you drive on tight rural roads on a frequent basis, it may be dangerous. Turned off on the way back from the dealer, and sometimes turns on on lengthy highway journeys if I remember. To be honest, 98% of the current driver aid technology is just distracting, yet it is essential for NCAP. The only item that is helpful is the device that scans road signs and sends the speed restriction to the cruise or speed limiter. I think I like the older vehicles because, as long as you don't drive like a jerk, it lets you get on with it and only intervenes if things go really wrong. They also looked to throw less wobblers.