BENZE220AMG

In order for the Mercedes dealership to take any action, you must pay them for their investigation charge, even though they will likely reach the same conclusion that you have already reached. However, when the defect is documented in their system, they may input the information into the MB UK computer system to see whether it can be fixed with a significant payment from MB as a gesture of goodwill. There is a substantial probability that "the computer says no". Subsequently, you have the option to personally reach out to MB UK, if desired, along with the physical defect report obtained from the dealership. You can then articulate that you have come across several accounts of NOx sensors being changed at no cost due to their acknowledged problematic nature. Based on the service history of your automobile, it is probable that they will provide either full or partial payment. When my vehicle became 7 years old, I had the sensors changed. MB UK provided a contribution of £1100 towards the cost. However, this occurred after they had been substituted with a new focus at around 18 months and almost 4 years of age. Within a span of less than three years, the same problem code resurfaced once again. I opted to avoid the inconvenience and purchased an inexpensive code reader to nullify the code. It was mentioned a few times in the following months, but eventually stopped attempting to grab my attention. Approximately one year later, I had the same procedure. One significant distinction for me is that my automobile runs on fuel, which means it relies less on receiving accurate information from the sensors. It may not be feasible to 'convince' the ECU to cease its persistent reminders. Additionally, it is unlikely that it will emit significant amounts of NOx. Best wishes.

Convenient timing, since a buddy encountered a pothole earlier and I was uncertain whether to fix the damage myself or seek assistance from the AA. This prompts the inquiry: what are the advantages and disadvantages of doing a do-it-yourself repair on a tyre that supports one corner of a 1.5 kg automobile, covering a distance of 8,000 miles, while driving at speeds up to the maximum legal limit?

What is your location in the United Kingdom?

Pleasant.....What is the total number of horses and what is the acceleration time from 0 to 60 miles per hour?

Do not underestimate the grip of the Pirelli P Zero tyres. I am deciding between the Michelin Pilot Sports and Goodyears.

Another issue I discovered with the problem on my S203 C270Cdi was the failure of the kickdown mechanism. Therefore, if you are experiencing both issues (inability to rev over 3k and lack of kickdown), it strongly suggests a malfunctioning Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor. I apologise for the sluggish memory. The issue with the S203 occurred 15 years ago, which was 2 years prior to when I exchanged it with the present S204 C220.

After purchasing my S203 C270Cdi, I had the issue of it not exceeding 3K RPM, which fortunately occurred while the vehicle was still covered by warranty. The issue was resolved by replacing the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor.

What are your future plans for your diesel automobile with four cylinders? Are you referring to track days? Bilstein shocks are of excellent quality and quite valuable if you want to use their features. I have just replaced the suspension on all four corners of my C55 AMG (S203) with Koni gas struts/shocks, along with MB supplied Eibac AMG specific front springs and Sachs rear springs. The outcome is really satisfactory for everyday driving on UK roads. It is evident that you have thoroughly researched the topic and it is apparent that you understand that shock length, unless it is very long or short, does not have an impact on ride height. The primary factor that affects ride height is the springs. It seems that you are inquiring about determining the appropriate shock length for the springs you are planning to replace. Is that correct? Gazwould is a knowledgeable member on this platform. Attempt to contact him via private message. Wishing you the best of success. Kindly inform us of your decision and the ensuing outcomes.

I am sceptical that it will be the cluster mate. The defect does not seem to be of that kind to me, and there will be little circuitry for the indication tell tales in a vehicle of this age. It seems that you have some exposed wires resulting from earlier improper handling. You should investigate and determine their respective destinations. The peculiar brownish-red striped object located above the throttle catches my attention due to its unconventional hue, which is not often seen in aftermarket products. I am curious to understand the purpose or significance of this component. Curiously, have you seen the tail lights during these occurrences? If the indicators are not illuminating while the lights are on, even if just to a little extent, it may be necessary to remove the lens in order to fully inspect the bulb. Typically, this issue is indicated by the presence of additional electrical current flowing through the brake lights due to a faulty grounding connection. However, it is advisable to verify this possibility, since it requires no financial investment. Please provide regular updates since I am really interested in the final result.

I agree with Black_raven assessment that there is likely an earth fault. Have you inspected the electrical connections at the tail lights? The likely cause of the problem is inside your cluster and switch, since the issue is consistent on both sides. I would remove that group of objects and begin the process of following the wires back to their source. Upon discovering someone's actions, it is possible to reverse them and return to a favourable initial state. I am acquainted with a skilled automotive electrician who operates in the Dartford/south London area. Therefore, whether or not he can assist you will depend on the location of your vehicle.

Has it enhanced the quality of the driving experience?

Installing paddles will not enhance the responsiveness of the gearbox.

Although I first considered that possibility, there is no indication of a Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) warning light, and the diagnostic test did not reveal any issues.

I returned because a yellow engine warning light appeared this time. The diagnostic analysis indicated a malfunctioning power system (the specific acronym escapes my memory, but it is unrelated to air conditioning). The experts believe that once this issue is rectified, the gearbox problem will be resolved.

Thank you for the prompt replies! It is possible that I am misusing the phrase "limp mode" in this context. I am unable to locate any problem code (where would it be displayed?). Although my vehicle is covered by warranty and I am use an official repair shop for Mercedes-Benz, I am rather concerned that they failed to discover and resolve the problem on my first visit.

Greetings, everyone. My 2020 E350d often has a gearbox malfunction that I am certain is unrelated to the gears themselves. The vehicle exhibits a typical starting behaviour, but after a few period of driving, it maintains the gears at a high engine speed of 3000 rpm before shifting up, even under situations of little strain on the engine. This occurs in all gearbox modes, ranging from Eco to Sport+. Furthermore, I am unable to supersede the gear selection using the paddle shifters. Occasionally, but not consistently, this is accompanied by the yellow engine warning light. When I turn off the car and then turn it back on, it returns to its regular state, and this remains the case 50% of the time. The issue has been increasing in frequency over time. The DPF light is not illuminated. The Merc repair shop has performed a firmware/software update on the gearbox, but, this action did not result in any noticeable change or improvement. I came across information suggesting that this might potentially be related to emissions, but I have been unable to locate any further specific details on this matter. I would much appreciate it if anybody has any information on this matter. Thank you in advance.

Is the valve with the part number A 169 470 02 93 a 'Regeneration Valve' that is not suitable for option 924 Natural Gas Operation?

£180

In the past, I have replaced batteries by connecting them to a chassis earth and residing behind the red jump flap using leads. Resetting clock, date, windows, and sunroof is a more time-efficient process.and audio.

1) It is likely that most dealerships would extract the oil by suctioning it out, rather than draining it via the sump plug(s), since this would require removing all the undertrays. If one chooses to repeatedly empty the cooler, it is anticipated that there will be a substantial increase in both cost and duration. 2&3) Avoid making any assumptions; anticipate that the jerkiness will need a software upgrade. Would you want them to also deplete the torque converter? 5) Once again, refrain from making assumptions. Request them to share the codes for the versions before and after, since the changes may be rather minor. Anticipate that this process may need a duration of 3-5 hours.

What are the consequences of accelerating from a stationary position when the vehicle is in D2?

Is the front right of the car located in close proximity to the gearbox or drivetrain, unless it is equipped with a 4matic system? Are you certain that there is no cracking noise emanating from the brakes while the vehicle is held against the gearbox?

I am willing to assist if possible. Are you inquiring if the removal of the sensor will result in the absence of fluid? This observation suggests that we are examining distinct sensors. The one I am referring about is located at the pedal located over your feet. When examining the switches and sensors located at the servo and brake reservoir, it is seen that none of them are responsible for activating the brake lights. Additionally, it is important to note that the malfunction of the alarm is most likely attributed to the siren itself, maybe due to corroded terminals or damaged wiring in close proximity to the siren (specifically, the n/s/f wheel arch liner).

Circuit 30 operates on live power, therefore necessitating the detachment of the battery. However, by only removing the power from the SAM, the failure may be resolved, thereby isolating the problem. The brake light switch is equipped with separate wires for the lights and the ESP/abs, among other components. It can be easily tested with a multimeter. When the switch is pushed, it creates an open circuit, but when it is not pressed, it acts as a resistance. An alternative approach would be to detach the switch, fully extract the central component using a ratchet mechanism, and thereafter reconnect the sensor. This procedure may potentially resolve the issue at hand. However, brake light switches are inexpensive.

Have you attempted a circuit reset of 30 units? Deactivate the battery power of the SAM module for a brief duration. I would be examining the brake light switch, since a defective switch has the potential to result in both the lights being trapped on and the ESP lights being illuminated. Is a 30mA pull causing battery depletion? Typically, the CAN system carries around 800mA while it is in an active state.