BENZE220AMG

What is the component number of the original pot you have?

Does the new item possess the same component number as your previous one? Is it functional?

Indeed, it is a feline restoration endeavour. If you have an available hour, you may read my developing journal by clicking here, which includes some photographs. Regarding water intrusion, the sensor is a recently manufactured original equipment manufacturer (OEM) component from Mercedes-Benz. The bumper has undergone a complete reconstruction and has been stored at my home for the last 2 months, awaiting the return of the vehicle from the paint job. I have affixed the wires in close proximity to the bulkhead and am still seeing a consistent flow of electrical current at the sensor connector. Therefore, I speculated that it may be the actual plug that was changed. While I may have achieved continuity, the resistance is not within the specified range owing to the repair joint. After obtaining the old, authentic sensor, I verified that it did not trigger the error when used on the left side. Subsequently, I directly connected it to the wiring harness socket, although the malfunction persists. In addition, I have exchanged the sensors from the left side to the right side, nevertheless I continue to get the same issue. Therefore, the issue does not stem from the sensor, plug, or a damaged cable. What other possibilities exist? It seems improbable that the code cannot be cleared by my scanner, since I am able to reproduce the code and clear it simply connecting and disconnecting the left hand one. Currently, I am facing a significant obstacle and unable to make progress. I have a final expectation that this code is being impacted in some way by the other code associated with the petrol cylinder code B280613. The replacement component for this code was expected to come yesterday, but it has not been received yet. Consequently, I am sceptical about my ability to proceed with the task until next week, since I will be occupied with work from Monday to Friday. Although it may seem like wishful thinking, it is worth considering this possibility before spending money on an alternative. My last hypothesis is that it is connected to resistance. My experiment with hard wiring likely resulted in an increase in resistance due to the use of excessively thin wires. Should I do it once again today with a wire that has a greater diameter? While I am able to replace the front bumper loom, I fail to understand how this will resolve the issue if there is currently a consistent flow of electrical current to the sensor socket.

I have only disconnected either the main loom link at the front bumper or the two-pin connector from the sensor itself. Up to this point, I have been doing tests on separate lines.

After the rain stopped, I checked for continuity on the second wire and found no signal. Therefore, I cut and replaced the original fix. I tested it again and confirmed that everything was functioning properly when plugged in. Reassembled all the components, performed a thorough scan of the automobile, and encountered the same issue once again. I assume that there may have been wires that were destroyed at a higher point in the weave. Upon the arrival of my piercing probes tomorrow, I will have the opportunity to do a thorough examination of the loom at a far higher level than the extent of the accident damage. With any luck, this investigation will uncover any potential issues. I will provide you with regular updates.

The repair is not on the bumper loom; otherwise, I would have simply replaced the whole unit. It is located on the spur of the main loom, which connects to the mentioned plug. Today, I spoke with an autonomous Mercedes garage about the cost of replacement, which was quoted at £1100 with a lead time of 3 months. Consequently, we have decided against pursuing that option.

Excellent decision, I have placed an order and it is expected to arrive tomorrow. Meanwhile, I have recently conducted an experiment involving piercing a sewing needle through the solder stick, and it was successful. The first wire is functioning properly, since it maintains continuity from the sensor socket over its whole length. If it is determined that a broken wire is not the cause, what other factors may result in a fault code indicating a 'short to positive or open circuit'? This error notice pertains to one of the two sensors responsible for detecting and ensuring the safety of pedestrians. The current trouble code is B273715. The only remaining possibility I can consider is that the sensor itself is faulty, which would be unexpected because it is a newly manufactured original equipment manufacturer (OEM) component.

Seeking advice from anybody who can provide guidance. I have identified a malfunction in my vehicle (C43 S205 2019) that I feel is mostly due to one or more broken wires in the wiring harness leading to the front bumper. I have had to rejoin severed wires on this wiring harness using solder sticks. I would want to test for continuity starting at the front bumper loom connection plug, which is attached to the front bumper, and extending all the way to the repaired area. Currently, my only method of doing this task would involve severing the wires closer to the vehicle above the damaged area, and then examining the continuity by testing the connecting socket at the front bumper. I would want to avoid this situation if feasible, since it would lead to more repairs of wire junctions that have previously been fixed. May I inquire about the possible placement of the termination point for this loom, namely the front parking sensors and pedestrian protection sensors, inside the fuse box? Alternatively, is there any alternative method that I may use to do this test without causing any damage? What is wire pinning? Thank you very much

Indeed, I understand your concerns with the SLK. I am experiencing a same issue with it. The previous SL model is easier to maintain for your handyman, but it is an older model. (The major drawback, from my perspective, is the metal roof that requires two people to raise and thereafter has to be stored)

"Alternative viewpoints exist, however" If you are driving 2,000 miles per year, the dependability of the vehicle is not a concern. If you have the opportunity to use an affordable automotive technician, then opting for an older vehicle entails a reduced level of potential hazards. Are you really desiring an automobile of such significant size? The SLK is priced at two-thirds the cost of an SL, and offers enough room for those who mostly engage in casual driving.

Therefore, the options are a 14-year-old SL with 60,000 miles and a 21-year-old SL500 with 70,000 miles. What is your intended annual mileage and purpose for using it? What will be your real driving speed? What is the maximum distance you could travel? What is Cornwall? Which one, Tuscany or something else? When an automobile malfunctions, what is your usual course of action? Conduct your own investigation, and maybe rectify the issue by either contacting a large dealer or reaching out to a local garage.

Does it produce a loud tapping sound similar to a tappet rattle? I had a similar issue and attempted all suggested solutions. Eventually, I discovered that the timing chain had skipped a tooth on the cam pulley, resulting in correct timing for the crank and pump. Modified it and eliminated the rattling noise.

The pricing seems favourable. Is the wheel alignment also being inspected?

What advantages does having an online account offer?

https://operatingfluids.mercedes-benz.com/sheet/231.1

Access the YouTube platform and do a search for the channel named "Legitstreecars". The individual named Alex is prominently featured in the content of this channel. Both on a Mercedes-Benz E-Class and a Mercedes-AMG C63.

You will want the assistance of an individual who has a Genuine MB STAR device for the purpose of coding. It is not possible to programme MB automobiles with Launch diagnostic scanners, unlike BMW and some other brands. Is there a nearby automotive technician who specialises in servicing Mercedes-Benz vehicles independently?

Congratulations for a job well executed! I'm pleased to hear that you were able to resolve the issue successfully. Well done!👍🏻

In my opinion, I would recommend obtaining an accurate diagnostic from a reputable independent garage or expert prior to investing a significant amount of money on individual components. Best wishes

Regrettably, I am unable to assist you, pal. I empathise with you. It seems like you are not receiving much assistance from this group of people.

Are you referring to the front driveshafts?

Have you inspected the bonnet release cable as mentioned previously?

It is really a significant disappointment, and I can imagine that you must be feeling rather awful. Consider promoting the automobile by highlighting its current problems and exploring the possibility of finding someone interested in salvaging it. The item must have value if the remaining parts are in excellent condition. You may be left with all the desirable components removed and just the remaining parts to discard...

I completely agree with my approach, as it significantly reduces the amount of time required. Additionally, there is a possibility of inadvertently causing harm or impairing another component while doing the task. Every Mercedes-Benz expert will have access to the STAR diagnostic system.

Although I am uncertain about this specific matter, I am aware that when replacing components, it is necessary to use the STAR system to reset or acknowledge the modifications. However, I myself do not do these tasks since they are handled by my independent technician.