BENZE220AMG

above, does extensive work for me including both Automatics and DCT's. I specifically specialise in opening transmissions with the model numbers 722.6 and 722.9, but I do not have the expertise to open any other kind of transmissions. I am uncertain about his level of involvement in these matters, although it seems likely that he does participate. Engaging in a conversation might potentially be beneficial. Specify You were referred by Gareth at ACE Engineering, Billingshurst. Direct contact with him is not possible, but, the ladies will record your contact information and he will respond to you at a later time. He is actively involved in a bustling establishment. At the very least, his advise will be accurate and precise.

It is essential to verify that the software upgrades are current, although I would expect the dealership to have already done so.

The reason for the resetting during a key cycle is because when the system detects a malfunction, it switches to a limp mode where only one clutch is used. As a result, the issue is likely to be related to the clutch used for even-numbered gears. A key cycle will reset the limp state until the next occurrence of the issue.

The gearbox used is the Getrag 7DCL750, which is also used in the Ford GT and other Ferrari models. In my honest view, it would be advisable to see a gearbox expert instead than relying on the services of a Mercedes main dealer.

Helpful do-it-yourself summary. Thank you. This information will be beneficial for anybody contemplating doing the task alone.

Leakages in the intake manifold result in positive fuel trims. If the purge valve remains open, it will introduce more fuel into the mixture, resulting in negative trims as shown. Verify whether it is accessible even in the absence of electricity. When not powered, it should not allow any airflow. By increasing the engine speed to 1500rpm while the vehicle is in neutral and maintaining this level, do the trim levels gradually return to a normal state?

A significant negative trim value indicates that the O2 sensor is detecting an insufficient amount of oxygen in the exhaust. This is the result of an excessively concentrated combination. The most probable reason is a fuel injector that is leaking, however there might be other factors contributing to the issue. Given the prevalence of leaky injectors or instances of them being stuck open, it would be advisable to prioritise investigating the M156s as a potential source of the issue.

I am not really like of those 'Scotchlok' type splices myself, but I must agree that they are convenient to use.

Indeed, it is quite likely that it is even more appropriate for automotive applications.👍

I have a preference for soldering and using heatshrink, but I am also really enthusiastic about using Wago 222 series cage clamps. https://www.expertelectrical.co.uk/wago-222-series-wiring-connectors?utm_source=adtraction&utm_medium=partner&utm_campaign=adtraction&at_gd=A0094408F8A4B17DAA3FCCDBA5427BA55AD5DCA8

I purchased a set of headers and a floorpan section from Summit. The shipping process to the UK went well, with the exception of the high cost. I found them to be far more manageable than JEGS, who consistently added an additional expense, often payed to the goods firm. Summit does not provide magnets, but they do provide an abundance of Summit Racing Equipment stickers. 🙂

There are few. I had around 10 cars, but I decided to give a few of them to a couple who live across the street. Their youngest son has a strong interest in cars.

I often use them (as you are aware ;)) and have only positive feedback on the service they provide. An outstanding example is the speedo cable for the vehicle that was ordered on a Sunday and arrived on the following Wednesday. Noteworthy on its own, but even more remarkable when considering that I placed the order on Boxing Day last year, which happened to fall on a Sunday. In addition, I own several refrigerator magnets acquired from the same source. 😄

Attempt the experiment by disconnecting the air mass sensor. Does this action result in a smoother outcome?

The automobile is equipped with ventilated seats for added comfort, however I have only used them on a few occasions throughout the 12 years that I have had the vehicle. However, that amount is five times more than the number of times I have used the parking help.

I have identified two problem codes related to insufficient power. The first code indicates that the charge movement flap, namely the intake manifold swirl flaps, is clogged with carbon deposits. The second code suggests that the dpf sensor is malfunctioning.

However, the current trend of using a dull grey shade on automobile exteriors, like the colour of an unfinished Airfix kit, gives the impression that the car has just been primed and not properly painted. This aesthetic is unpleasant. The situation exacerbates when individuals choose the matte finish variant of the Airfix hue. However, colour preference is subjective and there is no definitive right or wrong choice. I have a strong affinity for the elegant and sophisticated shades of grey metallic gunmetal hues. I have not seen any automobiles that I would categorise as a genuine beige hue. The primer grey colour is unattractive and lacks depth.

Grey is quite dull and the one interior shade that I genuinely dislike.

Terminate the marriage with her, resulting in the absence of a wedding ring?

What is the component number of the original pot you have?

Does the new item possess the same component number as your previous one? Is it functional?

Indeed, it is a feline restoration endeavour. If you have an available hour, you may read my developing journal by clicking here, which includes some photographs. Regarding water intrusion, the sensor is a recently manufactured original equipment manufacturer (OEM) component from Mercedes-Benz. The bumper has undergone a complete reconstruction and has been stored at my home for the last 2 months, awaiting the return of the vehicle from the paint job. I have affixed the wires in close proximity to the bulkhead and am still seeing a consistent flow of electrical current at the sensor connector. Therefore, I speculated that it may be the actual plug that was changed. While I may have achieved continuity, the resistance is not within the specified range owing to the repair joint. After obtaining the old, authentic sensor, I verified that it did not trigger the error when used on the left side. Subsequently, I directly connected it to the wiring harness socket, although the malfunction persists. In addition, I have exchanged the sensors from the left side to the right side, nevertheless I continue to get the same issue. Therefore, the issue does not stem from the sensor, plug, or a damaged cable. What other possibilities exist? It seems improbable that the code cannot be cleared by my scanner, since I am able to reproduce the code and clear it simply connecting and disconnecting the left hand one. Currently, I am facing a significant obstacle and unable to make progress. I have a final expectation that this code is being impacted in some way by the other code associated with the petrol cylinder code B280613. The replacement component for this code was expected to come yesterday, but it has not been received yet. Consequently, I am sceptical about my ability to proceed with the task until next week, since I will be occupied with work from Monday to Friday. Although it may seem like wishful thinking, it is worth considering this possibility before spending money on an alternative. My last hypothesis is that it is connected to resistance. My experiment with hard wiring likely resulted in an increase in resistance due to the use of excessively thin wires. Should I do it once again today with a wire that has a greater diameter? While I am able to replace the front bumper loom, I fail to understand how this will resolve the issue if there is currently a consistent flow of electrical current to the sensor socket.

I have only disconnected either the main loom link at the front bumper or the two-pin connector from the sensor itself. Up to this point, I have been doing tests on separate lines.

After the rain stopped, I checked for continuity on the second wire and found no signal. Therefore, I cut and replaced the original fix. I tested it again and confirmed that everything was functioning properly when plugged in. Reassembled all the components, performed a thorough scan of the automobile, and encountered the same issue once again. I assume that there may have been wires that were destroyed at a higher point in the weave. Upon the arrival of my piercing probes tomorrow, I will have the opportunity to do a thorough examination of the loom at a far higher level than the extent of the accident damage. With any luck, this investigation will uncover any potential issues. I will provide you with regular updates.

The repair is not on the bumper loom; otherwise, I would have simply replaced the whole unit. It is located on the spur of the main loom, which connects to the mentioned plug. Today, I spoke with an autonomous Mercedes garage about the cost of replacement, which was quoted at £1100 with a lead time of 3 months. Consequently, we have decided against pursuing that option.