KOOLCAR

This is not an opportune season for selling a convertible. He will achieve a more favourable pricing and garner more interest in late spring if he can postpone his decision. He must submit it for a MOT in March, however. EBay and AT will provide reliable benchmarks, but it is advisable to avoid Facebook Marketplace due to the quality of purchasers.

They lack discernible branding.

This was the solution; I appreciate the recommendation! I am uncertain how it experienced two simultaneous failures, although that is how I acquired it. 🤷‍♂️

Achievement! Installed two new aftermarket ABS sensors on the drive, and the vehicle is operational! £20 repair! I am grateful that it is unnecessary to remove the hubs to change the rings.

Merely 30,000? I have purchased aftermarket products, so I would not be surprised.

That is logical; I will install new sensors now, and if they do not resolve the issue, I will go with the wheel bearing package next. One of the wheels has a little buckling; nonetheless, I believe it is insufficient to pose a problem. The wheel and tire dimensions seem to be accurate to my knowledge. Each axle is equipped with a matched set of tires exhibiting uniform wear.

I have not, since it seemed unusual for both sensors to malfunction simultaneously; but, I could replace them nonetheless.

The codes are included. Regards.

Greetings to everybody, I just acquired a facelifted C180 estate from the 2013 model year at a favorable price. I will upload some photographs, intending to do many subtle enhancements, including a reversing camera and headlight upgrade, among others. The low price is attributed to the activation of the ABS and traction control warning lights. I inspected the vehicle before to purchase and detected a code indicating implausible data for the front left wheel speed. I have brought the vehicle home, and after a little period of driving, it became undriveable due to the rear brakes seizing at any acceleration. Currently, upon scanning, it displays codes for both front wheel velocities. I disconnected one of the sensors, erased the codes, and the vehicle operated normally; nevertheless, it still retained several codes. I then exchanged both front sensors from left to right and vice versa. The sensors are authentic MB and seem to be in excellent shape, with no damage to the wire or connection. Upon clearing the codes and starting the vehicle, all warning lights stay out until the car is driven. Upon driving, I get error messages for both front wheel speeds, and the vehicle engages the back brakes. Upon clearing the codes, starting the vehicle, and deactivating the ESP via the car's settings, the warning lights illuminate; nonetheless, the vehicle operates normally. Upon examining the wheel speed readings using a diagnostic tool, the front wheels are displaying a value of 0. Should I take any other actions, or do you concur that the ABS rings have been compromised, necessitating the procurement of two wheel bearing kits that include the ABS rings? Or am I entirely mistaken, and a more severe issue may be the cause? All opinions are appreciated. I prefer to accurately analyze the issue instead than indiscriminately replacing components, since everything seems to be in its original condition.

Redex Forte BK44 All is well. Alternatively, many tankfuls of premium gasoline (BP Ultimate, Shell V-Power, Esso Supreme, etc.) would suffice, since premium fuels include superior detergents compared to other fuels.

Thank you for your reply; I will get the VIN from the vendor.

Subsequent 350d models are equipped with the same 2.9 inline six-cylinder engine as the 400d, although with varying performance specifications. I am considering vehicles from the years 2017 to 2020. I apologize for any lack of clarity.

Hello, how can I distinguish a CLS 350d from a CLS 400d? I am seeking a pre-owned model, and it seems that some 350Ds are misrepresented as 400Ds.

The plug-in hybrid electric vehicles seem to exhibit significantly greater reliability. The majority of battery faults observed are to the turbo variants.

An AGM will possess a vent, but not immediately apparent, as it serves as a vent for a safety valve. In the absence of a vent, there exists a possible explosive hazard due to excessive overcharging, which may lead to gas accumulation and pressurisation within the battery. AGMs are Valve Regulated Lead Acid (VRLA) batteries that operate at a modest pressure above ambient levels during charging to facilitate the recombination of vapours into liquid when gassing occurs. They are occasionally referred to as sealed batteries, but this designation applies solely during standard operation. Excessive overcharging will result in surpassing the safety valve pressure, leading to venting and electrolyte loss. The vent may not be directed away from the battery, nevertheless it is preferable to the battery exploding.

The AGM mode does not cause any detriment, although it charges an AGM battery more completely, reaching 14.8 volts compared to the standard mode's 14.5 volts. Both modes operate at an identical voltage of 13.8. Although the battery may not be an AGM, brief usage of a few hours in AGM mode would not damage it; nonetheless, I would advise against prolonged use of a regular battery in that mode, since it may fail to attain the float state. The critical depletion of the battery is a significant worry, since it will adversely affect its potential lifespan. A seldom-utilized vehicle requires a regular charge every one to two weeks.

You may need to upload the video to YouTube and thereafter provide the URL here.

If I were to do this task, I should execute it correctly. The headlights on the ML exhibit some cloudiness, therefore serving as a preliminary evaluation of the operation.

Does it also seal the plastic to mitigate UV degradation post-usage?

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